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Great, that's a lot easier then!

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Based purely on the labeling and hole spacing, they're giving you 3 terminal strips, plus one for ground.

The reason for the strips is that combining stranded wire and solid wire in a single connector (whether screw-type or wire nut) can be precarious. The solid wire can provide much more mechanical support, making the connection feel tight while the stranded wire can still slip out or is poorly connected.

Back to the fixture plate, under "FLEX N" you have 3 ports ganged together. This should be the neutral/return wire of your lighting circuit/loop - the wire returning to your breaker (or previous light fixture), a wire returning from the next light fixture, and the neutral/return of your light.

Next is "LOOP IN" with 3 ports that should be connected to each other but not the first 3 "N" ports. This is the hot/supply/live/line wire of your lighting circuit. The 3 ports should be: power supplied from your breaker, power out to your next fixture, and constant power out to your light switch.

The final 2 "FLEX L" ports (again, connected to each other but none of the previous 6 ports) should be switched hot/line returning from the wall switch, and the light fixture's hot/line wire.

All together, the strip accepts the power connections from the breaker or previous light fixture on the circuit/loop (2 solid wires), the next fixture on the circuit/loop (2 solid wires), the wires to the wall switch (2 solid wires), and the wires to the light fixture (2 stranded wires).

An observation: the left-most red wire on the terminal strip looks like it gets skinny a cm or two from the strip. It could just be bending behind the black wire (which has a speck of white paint or something on it), or the wire could be broken inside the insulation. If it's skinny, give it a wiggle and see if it bends easily at the thin spot.

Story of my life, sometimes the screwing you get, ain’t worth the screwing you get.

Buy one of those wire shower caddies that get attached with two strong adhesive stickers and place one of the sticker right over the inch crack. Clear silicone around the sticker for extra protection. Place and install shower caddy.

The grid is removable without consequences, but it is a bit tricky to get the inserts out of the door without breaking them.

It may hold the glass in place. Even though you are not replacing the glass, go through this video to see how it works. He cautions you about the glass once removing the frame.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c3ItH6oga_U

Your submission has been removed for one or more of the following reason(s):

• It is nearly impossible identify a load bearing wall visually without the assistance of an engineer's report or the original house plans.

• This is a DIY sub. Users here are not structural engineers and their advise should not be relied upon for such matters.

• An engineer's report considerably cheaper and faster than having to repair the damage done to the structure of your house.

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You can’t tell there are floor joists from any of the pictures. It could easily be blocking for drywall backing. Regardless, you also can’t say the double stud at the edge of the doorway is holding up the beam at all, without knowing what span the that beam is designed for, or what’s below the first floor.

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Even if that’s a joist for sure, which you absolutely can’t conclusively say from that picture, it tells you nothing about the double 2x4 at the doorway.

> either a mouse

Yeah thats what i thought too. I just hope for OP that this is not a case of aluminium wiring deciding to give out because that would indicate a much wider issue but i dont think that was ever an issue in the UK (they did that weird ring mains thing to save on copper iirc).

Good grief. Agree with others that you need to sand/scrape that down at least. The bulge at the bottom where it slumped is ugly and looks dodgy, and the lack of flexible exterior caulking between the door trim and the wall is not going to weather well. You can get small patch batches of stucco at the hardware store, that should be a suitable base for any exterior paint. Finally, put a small potted plant in front of it when you're done, because you'll need it.

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Get a wire brush head for your drill and use that to knock a lot of the rust off. Like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Brushes-Drills-Coated-Cleaning-Removing/dp/B08BXW5MD8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2K3Z9SQOLITH1&keywords=wire+brush+for+drill&pldnSite=1&qid=1669824012&sa-no-redirect=1&sprefix=wire+brush+for+drill%2Caps%2C173&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

Sorry, been running around, but just saw all these useful tips! Thank you everyone!

A cable failing would be a weird one... Hope its something obvious like a rodent eating through something because if the wiring in the walls of your house are capable of spontaneous failure like that you will have much larger problems than one bulb not turning on.

I checked the switch. When it’s off only one of the cables is live, when it’s one both cables are live. I suspect the cable that goes out of the switch back to the rose is the problematic one but will check this later and if this is the case I will start from the attic.

Always amazing to me how dumb people are. Pay for an hour of someone’s time to tell you what can and can’t go. Lmao

I've seen a lot of older houses where a room has nice oak around the edges, and poplar or some similarly cheaper wood in the middle, because many people used rugs in the middle.

I'd stick with 90 minute mud as a beginner, more waiting but more time to figure out what you are doing. Pure mud you'd need to get it pressed through to create new keys for adhesion, and the horsehair & sand in the greycoat adds strength, not sure pure plaster would last as long

It's in the UK, so start of winter. I'd bet either a mouse has moved in and chewed through a cable in the attic, or there was an old damaged cable in the wall with a screw through it and slight house movements due to temperature have moved damaged cable ends apart.