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Right

Why?

Why cant you window film each pane of glass. I know it’s possible. I’ve paid a company to do it. It was security film for a CEO of a Fortune 500 company. We couldn’t do it ourselves. They wanted a professional window film company to do it.

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That’s exactly what mine sounded like. Suppose it’s entirely possible with any temp mine is just always more prevalent with warm water. But suppose if the pipe passes through an area that’s not well insulated in cold areas even “cool” water could cause at least some expansion.

Huge thanks to everyone who posted. This sub is awesome. Based on what I’ve been advised here, I’m going to plug the lights in the GCFI outlet that I know is working properly. If that trips, I know the issue is somewhere in the lines and I’ll eliminate and recheck until I locate it.

If it does not trip, I’m going to plug a hair dryer into the suspect gcfi and see if that trips. If it does I’ll proceed to replacing the outlet.

For a rental, it honestly sounds easier to leave the frame and do smaller window film inserts

Control joints are cast-in-place (look down the next time you're on a sidewalk), or sawn after the concrete has hardened (often on a 10' or 12' grid). It's expected that a concrete slab will shrink as it cures and inevitably crack. The control joints will (hopefully) limit the cracking to the grid and not occur randomly, at angles, etc... Fiber additive or welded wire mesh is embedded in the concrete to help prevent the now separated pieces from moving vertically with respect to each other. The uncoupling membrane prevents the cracks from telegraphing through bonded materials like tile. On large slabs, expansion joints are required, and they should be continued up through the tile as a caulk joint.

Do not run Ditra or the fleece products like Redgard/Custom up the wall. Kerdi can be run up the wall in some shower systems.

This is a perfect description for UK lightning as its a loop at the light. One wire is always live and the other is controlled by the switch.

So tell us, what was wrong with his description?

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>Without the schematics I can’t understand why the 3 ports in the middle are live even when the switch is off. They are named ‘Loop in’. The ones on the right are named ‘Flex L’ and the ones on the left are ‘Flex N’.

Change your switch first, I had an issue with mine I couldn't work out and it turns out the switch had broken itself.

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Clay liners are typically just stacked and laid in place while brick goes up surrounding them. I’ve done a few stainless liners- the upper termination just sits on top of existing chimney. The pain in the ass part is getting into the side of the flue down low- you need a good hammer drill with chisels to slope the flex liner up and to mortar around the liner, setting a termination ring in place, you need your wye fitting to the two appliances to be at a safe height above both appliances and you should not use appliance with powered vent when the other is natural draft- ask a plumber if they will let you snake the liner and have them do everything in the basement.

How much risk are you willing to take? :) If it just starts falling inward, two people should be able to remove the whole glass panel, place it on a carpet, and tint it there.

Can your pinky fit into it? If not, probably fine.

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Like I said once you remove the frame, especially with someone there to hold it, you would see very fast if the glass is loose or still glues to the outside frame.

I had read somewhere along the line to glue the foam using vertical glue runs instead of horizontal. Idea was any moisture could run down to floor instead of getting trapped. Is this needed or just overthinking?

I was kidding, haha. It looks terrible right now but it's just aesthetic -- I'd rather have it ugly and keep water out than have a barely visible crack that lets water in. There's a hole in the laminate floor in the basement from when I dropped a 500 lbs. barbell doing squats, so there are several things in my home that buyers may question but I'm not going to advertise them. We can deal with that stuff if they ask about it.

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Oh man that’s good info! I have this same thing whenever running hot water in one bathroom, this gives some good context for what to check for, thanks!

This type of wiring is actually quite common in older homes in the US as well and is why smart switches say "neutral required." There isn't always a neutral at the switch, depending on how it was wired.

You can run the power to the switch (neutral, hot, ground) switch the hot, and then run the neutral, switched hot, and ground to the fixture. This is probably what you're accustomed to.

You can run the power to the fixture, then run a 3 conductor (plus ground) cable to the switch. The white is unused for a standard switch. Black is hot, red is the output of the switch.

In the bad old days, you could run the power to the fixture, then run a 2 conductor (plus ground) cable to the switch and just switch the hot off and on. Assuming black/white conductors, the black is hot, the white is the output of the switch. There is no neutral at the switch. This is not allowed by code any longer. This is more or less what you see here.

In the picture, you can see there are three groups of screw terminals. The wires within each group are connected internally by that plate.

The left group (blue, two blacks) is the neutral, continuing the circuit for the next fixture (black) and connecting to the lamp (blue).

The middle group (red) is the hot.

The right group (black, brown) is the return from the switch.

In this setup, replacing the fixture just requires undoing the screws for blue and brown, removing the wires under them, putting the wires for the new fixture in the newly opened slots, and tightening the screws. It's no more complicated than anything you'd see in the US, arguably less so than anything involving wirenuts, especially if the power goes to the fixture first.

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Well, as he shows it, the frame holds the glass, but once you remove the inside part, the glass is still glued or caulked to the outside part of the frame and it takes effort to remove it. If you do remove the inside frame (which would come out as one piece exposing the large glass pane), the glass should stay in. The problem is, you never know of the door has the glass glued in, if the glue is still holding, and so on. You'll likely be fine, and yes, it would be far easier to tint without the frames in place with a much better result, but just be cautious that the glass does not fall inward. Once you remove the frame, it should be immediately apparent if the glass is going to come loose.