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0. Take all safety precautions. If you get a shock, call an electrician.

1. Did it ever work?

2. If so, what changed? Where? In what way?

3. It's not a bulb. It's most likely called a fixture, or some other name indicating that several things are wired together.

4. Contact the fixture's manufacturer, if possible, for instructions. Instructions will show you what voltages and connections you should find.

5. Do you have two more of these things in the house? If you do, you can use a voltmeter to compare how/if those connections compare to your problem.

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Check all connections (breaker off), pull on the wires to see if anything is loose.

The hot wire of your fixture (brown) doesn't seem to get power from the switched hot of your switch (red sleeved black).

If you ruled that out, measure continuity between the switch and the fixture to see if the wire is broken somewhere

Well, once you are done sanding and have cleaned the dust off, don’t forget to tape the doorframe and floor with some masking tape, leave it there once primer dries, then put your topcoat on, might want to “feather” the edge between new paint and old paint so there’s no hard line between the two, wait for that to be touch dry and THEN remove the masking tape. Much easier than trying to clean up paint drips and spatters after the fact.

>arguably less so than anything involving wirenuts

I've taken to just wiring plugs at the end of wires so I will be able to just wire the male plug into new appliances I intend to replace old ones and just plug them in once it is time. So much easier to do that on the ground than have to deal with twisting those wirenuts at the top of a ladder. But these are for home and family/friends where I don't mind spending an extra $4 for future proofing. It's also a lot easier than installing a whole new outlet for things like garbage disposals where the person accidentally got a plug version so I don't have to worry about stripping the cabling and taping up the connections out in the open where water can be a problem.

EDIT: Apparently what I meant wasn't understood. I'm just converting the ends of the cables from a hardwired version to a plugged version. The female is always secured and it lets the appliance just plug directly into it. This is literally no different than it being a plugged appliance unless anyone knows any better. Plugs aren't special, they're just hardwired into the plug rather than directly into the junction box by way of wire nuts connectors or wago connectors.

Yes - so they did.

If it's live going into the wire and not live coming out of the wire (so to speak) then sounds like a break in the wire.

OP says switch works as designed

Cracks in concrete are fairly common as the earth may settle underneath the slab. I suppose if it concerns you, maybe do have it checked out if a major issue or just a repairable one.

I would just cut each individual square and lay it on, it’ll take more time and be a big headache to do but it is the easiest way to do it

That looks very much like my door and mine is one solid piece of glass with the rectangles wing decorative. I known for the sure because some of it broke off. If you aren't sure see if you can slide a piece of paper between the frame and glass. If so they aren't attached.

Okay, as we are doing this...

Have you tried turning it off and on again?

Oct

That window "frame" is basically a thin piece of material that is used to trim out the window. I don't know how thick it is, but behind it is likely lumber framing. The screws that you use should go through that trim material and in to the lumber framing for the strongest connection.

You can use normal wood screws or perhaps even better, interior construction screws. Just stay away from the black drywall screws. They're brittle. Calculate a 1/2" for the trim material and at least an inch of embedment in to the framing lumber behind it. So that's a 1 1/2" or 2" screw. A pan head screw might look best.

The issue you have with splitting here is that you did not pre-drill the hole. Trim material is often a bit weak/brittle, especially toward the end of the board where your screw is. The drill bit size that you use should be about the same size as the shaft of the screw you want to use. NOT the full size of the screw and it's threads. If I’m doubt, make the drill bit size a bit smaller than a bit bigger. Your pre-drilling would only need to go through the trim material. You do not need to pre-drill the stud behind it as well. Though you are welcome to as it won’t harm anything.

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Yeah, I agree it’s going to be time consuming. The grid is part of the frame that holds the glass in. Like some else stated the glass may fall out. It may fall out when you apply the window film. You’ll need someone on the outside to behold the glass in place while working on it. By the time you take the frame off, apply the window film, reseal and attach the frame. It’s probably gonna be a wash. But hey. Do what you’re comfortable with.

If the beam has been sized to span from the post next to the refrigerator to the post coming out of the countertop and those posts are sized correctly with load transfer to the floor below then it doesn't matter. I can't tell the beam dimensions from this picture.

Wait so you think it’s a single 2x4, laid flat, carrying joists? Yeah you’re clueless and shouldn’t be giving anyone advice on what is or isn’t load bearing. Ever.

Why are you trying to make a physical change if it’s not your property?

Would it be ok to install hardwood floors over this type of cracked concrete slab? I'd assume that the hardwood slats would allow for some movement in the slab without too much unevenness showing at the surface of the wood surface.

Replace the switch

Applying window tint film well is not an easy task; have you ever applied window film?

It's not recommended that you apply fiberglass insulation directly to a concrete wall. If you must use fiberglass, there needs to be a space between the insulation and the wall. If not, the place where the insulation touches the concrete will be overtaken by mold and mildew.

Pilot holes and wood screws, probably 1" should suffice. If you're mounting directly to the window frame like that.

In sheet rock, pilot hole, self tapping drywall anchors and the screws they came with. Somewhere in between a machine and sheetrock screw.