That’s very smart honestly

Yea I know I specifically saved the instructions and tools after I put it together a couple years ago, I literally just saw them somewhere a few weeks ago, but now I can’t find them! Agh!

I sure hope so! From the other responses, it sounds like it should be fine

I just heard him talk about that the other day, that was from a wood burning fireplace with the flue closed. Unfortunate to happen, but the liner kit is pretty foolproof as far as how to connect things an where to seal them. I'm aware of requirements like sloping the vent upward

Reading around it sounds like it's quite DIY friendly. I have a little tuckpointing experience as well if necessary.

Yeah neither has a powered vent, they are natural draft. The clean out door on bottom seems adequate to fit a 5" liner but I was planning on feeding from the roof and have someone pull the rope from the bottom. Did you pull up from the bottom?

Thank you, I won't worry about it then.

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There's a clean out at the bottom and looking up from there, it appears that there's a void between the brick and clay. It's hard to see if there's any supports, but the bottom of the clay is just hanging at the bottom. I'm going to have to get a better look with a camera I think, but it's definitely not encased in mortar.

Can you see the upside down through the crack? If not, you’re good.

"Frame wall" is wood or steel, both figure 5 and 6 mention sheathing of "non paper-faced exterior gypsum sheathing, plywood, or oriented strand board (OSB)" as do several others.

The article is written using a bit more academic jargon than colloquial terms and is extremely information-dense, so it's not as beginner-friendly as it could be.

The issue is more likely to be in the bayonet fitting you put the lamp into than in the wiring on the harness plate.

Not being funny here, but you clearly don't know what you're doing, so don't fuck with it. Get it wrong and you'll melt shit or seriously hurt yourself.

Go online and find an NICEIC registered electrician near you and ask them to come fix it for you

Yes, I agree that’s what I meant. I wouldn’t say anything until it comes up in the inspection.

That is good; bubbles were my concern.

Just do a black out curtain?

If the whole space is uninsulated, then the whole space may get cold enough to freeze the pipe. Just insulating right next to the pipe will probably not be enough in that case. Likewise, insulating the pipe itself probably won't help either if the cold conditions stay for long enough. A pipe heating coil/wrap/tape/element might be the way to go. Just a trickle of electricity to keep the pipe above freezing temperatures.

That said, adding insulation to the entire space will help, but that's a whole project.

OP if you need any help deciding on screws, check out this fastener guide from bolt depot. You can even print it and overlay screws you have to determine their sizes and whatnot.

https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/printable-tools/printable-fastener-tools.pdf

The crack is fine. The wire is not

Building code?

Have you tried sticking your finger in to see if has power?

A structural engineer I know always says “There are two types of concrete Cracked and cracking. “ I doubt this helps.

This might sound daft but hear me out? That room doesn't have its own circuit breaker does it?

Looking at that ceiling makes me think that you live in a rather old house(?). Before modern standardisation was introduced, a lot of old wiring was a hodgepodge of random wires going to some individual rooms, and later on when it came to "modernisation", it was easier to just re-trace old wiring paths for particular rooms rather that ripping the walls out for a complete job.

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Fair.

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