3m and other companies make a window insulation kit. It's basically like a clear shrink wrap that will seal then window for winter to get rid of the drafts.

But it most likely is the neutral in the lamp holder, buy a new pendant and switch. Turn off the power, remove the blue and brown flex but leave the rose and all other wiring in place, take the pendant off the rose of the new light and connect the blue and brown into same terminals as before (you'll need slide the old rose cover over the new pendant flex 1st) and change the switch. If that doesn't work definitely contact an electrician.

[removed]

No, it’s not really prescriptive. There are so many variables of construction methods and materials, heating and cooling systems, and how they interact.

If you plug a cable into an outlet it can pull out exactly the same. The female connector is always secured to the back wall and is no different than an outlet being there. And the appliance is firmly connected into the male plug hardware. I'm just converting the appliance to a plugged appliance.

https://youtu.be/JYBfMKp7Xrw?t=35

Am I not explaining something correctly? The only thing you have to know is that the plugs are the right spec. Like you wouldn't grab 220V plug adapters. It's literally like running an appliance to an outlet. I'm not talking about cramming anything into a cramped space.

What are you imagining I'm saying? Do you have any kind of example?

Like for example, let's take it to the most extreme possibility of just converting random things into plug versions, are you saying the following would be dangerous/illegal (the guy doesn't use a polarized plug like he should and is the epitome of a beginner, but I'm talking about the concept): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xuIeFafLIQ

The wires are secured into the plug. The plug coming unplugged wouldn't do any damage besides cutting the power. Really curious what you were thinking about.

Electrician here. It looks to me like the neutrals (blacks on the left with the blue flex to the pendant) have come out and need re-terminating, the switch would be live and operate as normal but the light needs a neutral to work. The only problem would be that op said no other lights had stopped working, as this isn't end of line (last light on the circuit) the neutrals not being connected would effect any other light further down the circuit. Test between the earth and switched line (the black with red sleeving connected to the brown) And check for voltage, then check between the neutral and switched line. If all reads 230v the problem will be in the lamp holder (the bit the bulb goes into) if you don't get 230v between switched line and neutral (possibly 115v or something similar) check between neutral and earth if you have 230v between the 2 you have a neutral missing.(just to be clear neutral is a live cable) If you don't have 230v between switched line and earth the cable between the switch and pendant is probably damaged or poorly terminated in the switch. But in all honesty, I recommend contacting an electrician. The equipment you're using to test could be dangerous and not fit for testing this type of voltage. And please do not use the little clear screwdrivers with a light on top, they definitely are dangerous!

That's exactly what I need, thanks! And yeah I'll probably go with that company, they seem to have great reviews and will answer questions

Basketball pole or light on a pole. Cut it flush, fill the hole and move on. Not worth ripping it out and if you do, who knows if it's tied to the driveway or not and that'd get damaged if both are tied together.

Look in the pole first for any electrical wires if it's a old light pole.

Sounds like a plan.

I'm curious what types of flooring you do use over slab then? I did tile over ditra in my master bath, there weren't any cracks in the slab, so I'm not worried about it cracking in there, did it mostly for waterproofing and a tiny bit of thermal insulation. I do still have about 1200 sft of slab floor that will need to be redone in my kitchen/dining/laundry/living area. I know I don't want to tile all of it, maybe none of it, but the best I can come up with is luxury vinyl planks (it needs to be waterproof, not just water resistant). Problem is the floor needs to be relatively flat and I can't use any underlayment with that stuff apparently. I'm confused why LVP doesn't allow underlayment when laminate planks do. I could just do LVP in the kitchen area and stick with carpet in the living area, but really would like to ditch the carpet. Large area over a likely unlevel and cracked slab is a problem though. I'm surprise there doesn't seem to be better options.

Maybe I didn't look it over close enough but every outside layer was stone or some stone mixture. Vinyl siding is incredibly common and I'm struggling to understand why house wrap, with rigid foam and osb outside should go with no insulation on the interior.

I installed a fireplace insert into a masonry fireplace/chimney including a chimney liner and cap. It was not hard to do. The hardest part was getting the liner through the damper 'gap' at the bottom of the chimney and then attaching it to the back of the insert so that made a good seal. I needed a helper to get the liner down the top of the chimney, but the rest I was able to do by myself. 20' of corrugated/insulated metal pipe is very awkward for one person to wrangle and downright dangerous to do so on a roof.

From your post it sounds like you are considering a different kind of cap than I used. I did not need to modify the flue tiles at all because the cap was designed to fit over them and then held in place by screws. The liner attached to the cap with an adjustable clamp. See here:

https://www.rockfordchimneysupply.com/chimney-liners/316ti-flexible-chimney-liners/316ti-liner-components/round-liner-components/terra-cotta-top-plate.php

I bought my kit from this company, and I am happy with the result. Maybe they sell a kit that will work for your furnace/heater?

Removing that concrete is going to be a massive pain in the back. Unless you want something to grow where the concrete is, I would cut the pole at the base and call it a day.

Lol “go back to your desk job”

> I’m an engineer for Bosch and worked as a master tech for BMW for 12 years

Get some mason jars and other rustic ornaments and just go with it.

I'm fairly certain what you're describing isn't legal at all.

It's supposed to be a secure mechanical connection. A plug that can pull itself apart sure isn't a secure mechanical connection. You may also be overfilling the box, which is a fire hazard in its own right. You can get arcing or excess heat (without excess current draw) which could cause a fire without ever actually tripping the breaker.

Sawzall it now, worse comes to worse later you can jack hammer the rest out.

If you had wet spots or stains I would be worried, but you should be fine

Crazy as it sounds, white vinegar is pretty good at cleaning up rust.

Well, good luck bro...

[deleted]

>max span for that 2x4 is gonna be like 36”

Why even try to alter the premises?

Just to add colouring: EU colour codes say blue is neutral, Black is line and the orange is switched L

I'd try getting a reading with a tester to make sure of the colors, though (red was used for earth aeons ago, for example)

Don’t mess with it, fixing the rust requires removing the shelf from the tile, if a leak develops where it’s screwed in, you could get blamed for the damage even if you didn’t actually cause it.