Recent comments in /f/DIY

lollroller t1_iyeow15 wrote

Is that a corner? The same paint can look different on perpendicular walls, depending on light and shadows. I bet it will look fine when finished. That grey is much nicer than that brown IMO

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stinkasaurusrex t1_iyeoldt wrote

On the question of insulation, I recommend it if there is room in the chimney for the liner + insulation. Insulation keeps the gas hot as it exits the house which is a good thing. Hotter gasses rise faster, therefore the insulation will improve drafting. The gasses staying hot also reduces the build up of deposits from gas condensation. Maybe this is less an issue with natural gas exhaust, but with a wood burning stove you will get more rapid creosote build-up on the liner and therefore must clean it more often if you skip on insulation. You don't want a chimney fire.

Edit: I should make it clear that I am not a professional, just a DIY guy with a degree in physics. My opinions are worth what they cost you. :)

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lollroller t1_iyenihb wrote

There are definitely wall mounts that will work with 8 pound speakers, but your shelf will work and look good too. Maybe you could include a full-width block underneath where you could screw “up” into the back, and down through the shelf into the block.

Consider a small lip around the shelf too, or another method to keep the speakers from falling off. Eight pound speakers could really hurt if they fell on somebody’s head.

I don’t usually worry about stuff like this, but years ago we were on vacation visiting relatives, and one one of their surround speakers rattled off and landed square on one of our kid’s head, resulting in a trip to the ER and many stitches.

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theSiegs t1_iyen08n wrote

Couple things here.

  1. I did my own stainless liner install for my wood fireplace insert. My approach was to give it a try and get help if I couldn't get it to work. It worked fine.
  2. You should look up the installation manual for your furnace and water heater; many of the new high-efficiency ones won't work properly with a 5" vertical exhaust. You may be able to vent out the side of the house instead.
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jewishforthejokes t1_iyemfyw wrote

Figure 8 but with vinyl siding is fine, which has insulation in the cavity. Vinyl is far more forgiving of a siding material than stone, brick, or stucco so I presume the author didn't find it worth mentioning. Vinyl has lots of gaps so air and water vapor travel freely and it mounts with just nails so there's no brackets causing thermal breaks, so there's almost no way installing vinyl siding can compromise liquid water and vapor management. OTOH it's trivial to install synthetic stucco and trap water somewhere, causing rot and building destruction.

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djcobol OP t1_iyeluzs wrote

Reply to comment by lollroller in DIY Speaker Shelf by djcobol

I've tried 2 different post mounts, but the speakers were too heavy. My wife would also wants to try and match the rest of the trim in the room by painting/staining them.

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lollroller t1_iyeledn wrote

Satellite speakers usually have provisions for wall mounts. If yours do, that might be easier than building shelves from “scratch”. Plus most mounts allow you to position the speakers, and point them directionally.

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lightknight7777 t1_iyegi3c wrote

Reply to comment by rvgoingtohavefun in Lightbulb not working by BSPirat

That's a lot of assumptions.

I'd be absolutely fascinated to know how you thought there being a plug there could cause an arc that would then somehow not short the breaker in a way that a wire nut would. From an electrical perspective, there's virtually no difference between a male to female plug connection and a wire nut.

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Redneck_Ramsay t1_iyegban wrote

Theft-proof a truck bed soft cover?

I picked up a soft tonneau tri-fold cover for an upcoming cross country trip. I plan on moving any valuables to the cab when I stop each night, but was trying to figure out if there was a cheap-ish option to hinder thieves from cutting open the top and getting access to my things. There are some cross-bars to support the cover, and it's attached by clamps to the sides of the bed. It only needs to last ~4 days, I don't need the "tri fold" functionality of the cover during that time, and can dispose of whatever the solution is once I get to my next destination.

Any ideas?

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rvgoingtohavefun t1_iyefwf2 wrote

Reply to comment by lightknight7777 in Lightbulb not working by BSPirat

We're talking about light fixtures, here, or, at least, I thought we were. You said "deal with twisting those wirenuts at the top of a ladder", and most appliances (other than light fixtures, which I assumed you were referring to) aren't installed in a location that requires a ladder.

That first video is installing a stove/oven plug or dryer plug or something. I didn't really watch it. I'm not sure what you're getting at with that.

The second video is installing a fixture (that already uses flexible lamp cord) and plugging it into an extension cord (note that using an extension cord for permanently-installed fixtures is also not allowed, but that's not what we're talking about anyway).

We were talking about things that otherwise required wire nuts and were at the top of a ladder, so I presumed we were talking about normal light fixtures.

If you're putting a female end on the wires up in the ceiling and burying it INSIDE a junction box, that's not allowed.

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winter_rainbow t1_iyearow wrote

Sounds like a job for maintenance. You can go buy a Window Insulation Kit at most box stores. It’s just clears plastic that you tape to the window trim and “tighten” up the plastic with a hair dryer.

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