I’m just gonna guess, you should check manufacturers recommendations, but I doubt the rubber flooring is meant to survive the elements. Between UV and freeze/thaw cycles many rubber products will fall apart when left outside. I also don’t think rubber flooring will remain “nonslip” when covered with snow and ice.

you are probably right. will definitely use deicing compound but still want to do something about the deteriorating tiles

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concrete is solid from what I can see. sorry i’m a total beginner to diy, what would i use to fill in the gaps between thinset before installing on top? more thinset?

Genius. My first thought was something like plywood, but wire fencing never even crossed my mind. And again, never would have thought of the jam nuts applied in this way. Thank you!!

Fed down from the top. 5" stainless flex fits easily through clay flue no matter how sloppy the mason was.

Won't the rubber get covered in snow and ice thus becoming slippery? Deicing compound is your friend.

Tyvek is a water resistant barrier - its purpose is to reduce wetting behind your siding (whatever it is) and it is slightly vapour open to allow moisture to escape if the wall assembly does get wet. Think of it a bit like gore-tex; water doesn’t get in but some vapour can get out. Buildings are ok getting a bit wet - it’s generally only bad if they can’t dry out.

Tyvek can also perform as an air barrier if detailed correctly but that’s not what you’re seeing on most residential construction.

Older buildings don’t usually have a vapour barrier and it’s not an issue because they are also poorly insulated and draughty. So they tend to dry out.

In a better insulated house that’s relatively air tight, problems occur where warm air meets a colder surface and you get condensation. Could be warm outside air meeting cold interior surface if you have AC. Could be warm interior air meeting cold exterior surface if you have heat blasting on cold days. If that condensed moisture gets trapped and won’t dry out, you get rot.

So - your 60 year old house that’s rot free is probably fine, but may be an energy pig. If you update it with better insulation and make it air tight to lower energy costs, that’s when you need some advice to get the details right.

I think another person said this but it is a single piece. The side facing in has about 9-12 screws counter sunk around the border/frame that have to be removed. Once those are out, pry up the border gently. It will not want to because the metal door is filled with expansion foam. It may take some finagling. Once removed, That is what holds the grid in place. It should more or less come right out. Then you can tint it. Install is reverse of removal, and seal with a bead of silicone/caulk on the inside of the removed piece

It’s double-paned, argon filled and has a n aluminum frame sandwiched around the perimeter of it filled with silica beads.

I'll also add, if you zoom in and look at the top of the card against the walls behind, there's patch right of centre where the colours are identical. It's all just about light.

No, it does not appear to be the same colour because all colour is just reflected light, and these surfaces reflect light differently. They face in completely different directions and you are holding the sample card in a third completely different direction.
If you used paint from the same pot/tin to fill the gap it is clear the same paint, it just appears different colours because of the angle of the light source. The textured paint exaggerates the effect, but do you genuinely think the paint is changing colour when it comes into contact with the two different surfaces?

Further test - cut the sample card in two. Tape/paste a piece against each wall right into the gap so they touch.

It's a matter of time and attention. The longer you can make it take and the more attention gets drawn while doing it the safer it will be.

Upon looking at the product in question, two things come to mind.

First things first, the clamps. A plastic molded thumb turn is great and all, but super easy to undo if you can access it. Fortunately this is super easy to fix: Jam nuts. Get two nuts that match the threaded rod. Run them up to the bottom of the thumb turn. Now get a pair of wrenches and tighten those nuts as hard you can against each other. No risk of damaging the thumb turn and no way to undo the thumb turn and unclamp the cover without using a wrench to un-jam the nuts. Best part is that the nuts are super cheap, this retrofit will easily cost you all of $4 and make it more annoying to deal with the cover even after cutting through it.

But the main problem is that the fabric will not, cannot, stop or even meaningfully delay forced entry. Any yahoo with a pocketknife can just cut a slit and get right in. So my first initial thought was ... chicken wire. Or better yet, welded wire fencing. For $50 you can pick up 50 ft x 40 inch rabbit guard wire fencing from Tractor Supply, which should be plenty for what I have in mind. Go to a big box home improvement store or a farm store and see what's available.

You'll have to figure out some way of securing the fencing to the framework of the cover. I'm thinking a small diameter drill bit and using wire ties. Drill a hole straight through the support bar, wire through the holes, twist around the fencing, and there ya go. Since the fencing is flexible you should still be able to open up the back like you're supposed to.

With the wire fencing on the underside even if someone slashed the cover they could probably still bend the wire to get their hand through (depending on the size of the grid), but they're not pulling anything out of the bed through it. If they had enough time and privacy they could cut slits, bend wire out of the way, and unhook the cover from the bed... unless there was something preventing them from unscrewing the hooks, like a jam nut.

Sure, if someone had time and motivation they could get through the wire fencing pretty easily, but the only thing that can really stop a determined thief is being there and stopping them yourself.

Cut it with a sawzall as close to the concrete as you can get, then use a hammer to knock down any sharp edges, then cover with dirt. If you ever need to remove the whole chunk in the future you can rent a jackhammer, or if you’re trying to lift/tow it out you can wrap a heavy chain around it.

Where is it leaking? And are you possibly over tightening it?

That's...odd, is there a crack through the threads in the water heater?

Did you put on teflon tape, tighten it as much as you could, then go one more time around?

Teflon tape doesn't seal the joint, it lubricates the threads so you can get a tighter fit - the thread on thread contact is what makes the seal. If you look closely, you'll notice the threaded part of the TPR valve is slightly tapered.

Did you adjust it after installing it?

Doing so can break the seal.

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It's not their shelf so it's worth their security deposit

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Didn’t think of that, thanks for the suggestion!

Is the cracking just the tiles or the concrete below? If the concrete is solid, I would thing that filling in / securing any cracks and installing on top would be ok.

And that shelf is worth maybe 3 bucks

I added the gap (and the picture) , it's been drying for about 30 minutes but it's pretty clear that it's not the same color... unless you still think i'm losing my mind which is valid haha

It'll look much better when you paint into the gap. There's a combo of effects here:

1. light striking the right hand wall but leaving the left in shadow creates very different tones.
2. The dark brown and bright white when placed next to a mid tone (your new grey paint) will each make the mid tone look very different - the dark brown makes it seem brighter than it actually is, and the white makes it seem darker than it actually is. Placing those effects side by side creates an even stronger contrast.

Thanks, I figured as much.

My house is in Maryland where we get all four seasons, with a walkout-style foundation and a natural stone facade, built in the early 60s. I did some remodeling and got inside some walls above and below grade and found no vapor barrier. At the time I couldn't find good info so just assumed it was built correctly, and the vapor barrier was either part of the exterior or was not needed. Homes under construction around here you always see with Tyvek Homewrap before the siding goes on, which is assume is a vapor barrier.

I'll bring it to the corners and swap out the pictures right now.

Edit: Yes, I completely agree, between the brown paint and carpeted bathrooms I have a bit to work with.