How deep are you figuring the shelves to be?

It really depends on how you're loading the shelves but I don't really see a 2x2 being strong enough esp. If you were to store canned goods and heavier items on them. For storing nothing but cereal and some boxes of pasta, you'd probably be ok.

I would go 2x3. Once the shelve is skinned, it won't appear any different than if you framed with 1x3 but it'll be much for rigid.

That should be more than sufficient. "Boxes" are often even stronger than you think they're going to be because all the pieces together as a system. I might even suggest MDF rather than plywood, if you are considering painting or using contact paper on top. It's cheaper, and takes paint REALLY well. Might even hide a 1x2 rib down the middle for added anti-sag support.

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If they are still working just liquid tape it and it'll be good to go

Tape will fail, and yes it is a fire hazard. Use the liquid mentioned above so you don’t accidentally burn your house down please!!

+1 for liquid electrical tape. Way better for keeping water out and in the sun that tape will fail eventually.

If they work id say let it live

Idellly pull the staple and replace string but, realistically buy some liquid electrical tape and paint over the cut. https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-07315001126-LTB-400-Electrical/dp/B000FPAN2K/

Acetone should help you out, I'd pour a puddle around where it's stuck to sorta let it soak through.

Try heating it up with a hair dryer, works with super glue

dumb question - is the through-hole version catastrophically too big? You could trim the leads down to short stubs and then solder them onto surface mount pads.

On large heavy wood table tops usually a metal c bar is used. I think you could probably buy (or thrift/salvage) one or two adjustable legs that could be attached in the middle opposite side where you’ll sit.

If you find a leg but it’s too short you could add a block of wood to correctly space it.

If you’re into woodworking there’s lots of other options; most simple being a vertical oriented board to prevent sagging

Have molding in my apartment

Hardwood floors are usually nailed in at an angle from the side so the nails aren't visible on the finished floor. That's not possible with an existing floor though.

There are special screws with snap-off heads so the hole/patch will be much less visible: https://www.squeakyfloor.com/counter-snap-floor-repair-kit/

Or you can just get deck screws with very small countersunk heads.

It is really weird...is it still under warranty?

Rugs

I did this last year. I opted for pure EPS. It can be messy to work with but it is a great insulator and it breathes a little bit more than the others, which was a big plus for me. When you insulate on the inside of a concrete wall, it needs to be able to dry a little to the inside. I felt pure EPS was the best balance.

I’d say the rim joist boxes are really important and it sounds like these get overlooked often. Clean them out, seal all the edges and cracks, insulate them with EPS blocks, then seal around those too.

Also, just don’t get it too hot in there when it is cooler outside as this will cause condensation that doesn’t have a good path to drying.

edit: spray foam is terrible, wouldn’t touch it

Simple solution: do a test. Put heavy stuff on it and see if it sags.

Thanks!
Does this apply also if the floor doesn't have any screws/nails visible?

Simply screw it down, fill with putty and seal?

Also, yeah, 99% of my apartment squeaks. Some worse, some less.

screws should be long enough to go through the wood into the subfloor

countersink screws where you find squeeks....then fill in with matching wood putty, sand and apply some clear sealer

Thanks, any and all opinions welcome

The threaded connection on the tank to the valve is where it appears to be coming from. It doesn't help that the valve sits about 3in down into the water heater so it makes it difficult to see.

Yes I tightened the way you describe. I didn't adjust it afterwards either. It's just weird that it started after 4 years now I can't get it to stop

Edit: The threads on the tank look fine, but the port is about 3in below the outer surface of the water heater so getting a close look is almost impossible

A concrete patch premix would probably work well. All the big box stores have something like that. You just want it nice, even and secure.