Just don't hire someone that's crooked.

I had this done on a 20 ft freestanding brick wall.

They had 4 dudes dig three holes along the length of the side it was leaning toward, they dug beneath it a bit and started lifting it with bottle jacks. Once they got it where it needed to be they supported it with concrete cylinders, and excavated a large cavity to fill with concrete. They charged me 4k and were done in a day, so great deal for them, but I wasn't about to DIY that.

So the issue I think I see with your plan to push with a back hoe is you can't really apply force to the top of the column because the brick work will not work in tension, so you'd be in the state of having to lift it from beneath with the back hoe.

It could work but I feel like jacks would be more appropriate. Less error prone, you could easily fuck things up with a mistake on the back hoe.

Having seen it done on a 20 ft wall, I'd feel sorta comfortable doing it on a column. Seems less risky.

Adding to this, the horizontal tension is insane the less deflection in the highline. I would backstay the post to a forest of equalized ground anchors. Actually, I'd call up my rigging instructor. That's a big project with a bunch of failure modes. I wouldn't build it without him helping on the design.

it would be the smart move. at the same time if you can also solve the underlying reason for the slump the time frame for the big fix gets even longer

Is it just leaning or is it also moving further away?

Why do you think it's moving? Whatever fix you implement it's only going to be temporary unless you also address the root cause.

There are lots of YouTube videos showing how to lift foundations and stuff like that. Seen a bunch where people use ordinary hydraulic jacks.

very informative answer

Even better.

no

Personally I'd do this until the brick column needed to be removed and then just redo it from scratch. Easier to save up and wait until then instead of shelling out a bunch of money now.

Oh yea, I would wood glue them together and then look for some kind of bolt to run through them to connect them all together, or an appropriate tie/mend plate or strong tie product I guess.

I don't really see an issue there, but I'd probably still drill and all thread those posts together so they were acting as 1 solid piece, but that certainly seems like an option.

You could probably get your hands on an I-beam to use. Delivery would still require a special truck, though.

What about 4 6x6s and run the line around them instead of through a single 6x6?

Iron Pipe would be my choice, a cable with that much tension on it could split PVC, and possibly split the post under load, and nobody wants that.

If you're going to run the cable through the 6x6 post like that I would drill an oversized hole and line it with a bit of iron pipe and run the cable through that, just to reduce the risk of the post splitting because of the cable/tension/etc. May even consider putting in some kind of brackets to reinforce that part of the post to keep it structurally sound.

Take the gate off before you do this.

that's a good temporary fix. but if the underlying reason for the tilt isn't resolved it will keep on creeping over

So, i wouldn't fix this, it's too much effort and it will most likely stop subsiding, get a sliding bracket made for the gate to attach to so you can adjust it further.

If I did want to fix it, on the assumption that it's got a weak, or very shallow foundation, i'd try lifting it with an excavator or engine lift, then pour a new foundation and mortar it back down. This might not be possible, but i'd give it a shot in an afternoon before calling the sidewalk leveling guys.

that's what i was going to recommend. but the same thing could be achieved by swapping out the top hinge with one that had more adjustment on it, if its not to far out of plumb. this would be only a temporary fix if the underlying issues of why the pillar is subsiding are not addressed, but it would by time to sock away the $$$$ to fix it all properly

What about some self fabricated spacers to put on the top hinge in between the brick.

This may potentially buy you some more time (hopefully years).

The spacer will get you back into a normal gate adjustment range.

>Lots to go wrong.

lol

This. It's leaning for a reason, fix that first or you'll be back here sooner next time.

I'd also assume this is a drainage issue from OP's pic--those bricks don't exactly look tattered and torn, so if the column is leaning it was likely a problem with the soil around it. Not the bricks themselves.

Fix the drainage and foundation first.

I wouldn't move the column, I would get a metal/welder person out to add to the hinge on the column.

As simple as those hinges are, they could add a rod to a pipe, giving a couple inches back at the top to be able to adjust it into plumb.

What do you think about 4 6x6s glued and screwed together with the edges sanded round so as to not pinch the cable wrapped around them...