225' is a massive amount of tension.

I did a zip-line with no trees and had the same issue. Wood that size is hard to find and extremely expensive. Ended up buying four 2"x10"x16' and laminated them together with glue/clamps/nails. Then put them in a 6 foot hole filled with concrete. It's very important that the thin edge of each board is pointing towards the zip-line.

If you don't need the elevation, I'd keep the top post as low as possible to reduce the torque.

There are online calculators that will calculate the tension of your cable. Then another "beam deflection" calculator which will tell you how much your wood will bend under that load.

Also - I use services like justanswer.com to double check my work. It's a fast/cheap way to chat with an engineer.

My local utility keeps replaced poles and damaged poles in their yard just for this type of project. A chain saw and a truck is all you need.

There’s no reason to think the hill is subsiding. It’s more likely the column itself is just settling.

A somewhat crude fix that you may not love the aesthetic of but will stop it from happening would be to anchor the column off with a guy wire and turnbuckle.
For a bit more robust solution you could dig a little concrete foundation off to the right side and set an anchor bolt in then with rotary hammer and wedge anchor secure another tie off at the top side of the column, run some cable between them and add a turnbuckle to adjust it. If you don't want to pour concrete you could drive a metal t post in deep at an angle.

The weight is less of an issue than the area.

It’s actually much easier to control the lift on a large slab, say 12’ x 12’ than it is on the footing of a column which is probably no more than 3’x3’

Pifff, that's to much work.. Just be my neighbor. Put the bumper of your 4x4 up to it and give a little gas. Nothing will go wrong! /s

There are foundation repair crews that can inject grout beneath the column… Ram-Jack and others are not cheap but they can provide solutions and warranties.

a large portion of that 14K is the BHT payment..... Big House Tax.

Do you need a gate? Take it down yourself and live without a gate.

Keep in mind that even IF this works, you’ve just added more weight to something that is already settling.

It would be a temporary fix.

From the picture and your description it appears the issue has nothing to do with the brick work. You'd have to get out there with a shovel to check but I'm betting that the foundation is insufficiently deep. Are you certain the foundation is a few feet thick? Even if it is it likely requires more depth and possibly lateral support to counter soil erosion. There are ways to brace and reinforce the column without tearing it down, digging down and starting from scratch but I wouldn't recommend it for a DIY project as a mistake could cause the column to topple with a potential for severe injury or death for anyone caught underneath. Best to get a professional who has the expertise and equipment to do the job right.

Install 2 steel piers beneath the footing to lift and stabilize it.

Depending on where you are located, it should cost between $2 and $4 thousand dollars.

It’s not a diy fix but it works.

And don’t believe the guy that said the whole hill is subsiding. That’s possible, but it’s far more likely to simply be settlement.

Read on line reviews and hire the right company. A good foundation repair contractor should be able to do this in a day.

Mudjacking is a term. It’s not the right term for this though.

What op described is known as PolyFoam injection.

It accomplishes the same thing as mudjacking but it’s a completely different process.

Yes

That was my thought, to do it "riight" could be a pretty expensive job. Depending on the speed of degradation, a 4 hour project that costs, $50 might fix it for 30 years until its noticeable again.

I was talking about sleeving the guy wires so kids don’t clothesline themselves so bad. On the 6x6 I think I would just run the cable through a drilled hole near top.

Scaffold pole. Cement it in. Couple of struts.

I don't know what you're going to use but please video the first time you do use it.

Is that her stage name or the act ?

Use the backhoe to demolish existing and start from scratch.

My buddies mom is known for that.

>It’s leaning away from the gate…

So maybe you should have said that.

I bet if you braced the column with a bunch of 4x4's, you could push on it with the excavator to straighten it up. The 4x4's would help spread the the load over the height of the column.

Then again, you might just collapse the whole thing, since I'd bet that things hollow. But then OP could do a follow up question about DIY brick laying.

I'd probably try digging some deep holes on the uphill side with a post hole digger, and just laying a paver or a flagstone over them. With some luck, frost heave will shove it back into place after a few freeze/thaw cycles.

No clue if it would actually work, of course.

I would think you would need through bolts, washers, and nuts if you want to go that route. You would also need to plane the two faces on each 6x6 that are getting glued for true adhesion.

Screws won't offer anything in terms of structural/shear strength. But I'm not a structural engineer and have never tried anything like this before.

Make sure you over engineer your anchors. What you’re playing with are called vector forces, and they increase exponentially. For example, if your track line is tensioned enough to provide a 170 degree angle from the load (straight line is 180, so almost straight), your anchors are now EACH receiving 574% of the load, or 1435 lbs each. This doesn’t include the dynamic forces created when your kids jump on the line.