You can look into a dc voltage pump, an actuated valve, or a few other configurations. What kind of flow and pressure variations are you looking for? Are you pumping hot or cold water?

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The machine I have is quite customizable and cheap. Users are installing pressure sensor. I was wondering if I could skip the pressure sensor which is used as a feedback to modulate the pump current, just by knowing what the pump's RMP/current is.

Call in the Burns slant drilling company, drill from across the way down about 1000 ft to directly under the post, pump in a few yards of concrete to correct the slant. Simple.

Op:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Whatcouldgowrong/comments/uztcgg/wcgw_pushing_this_wall_over/

> What are you basing this prediction on?

The fact that most foundation movement is caused by ground compaction, sliding or buckling, and outside of some very special circumstances, like building on a wet clay riverbed, the ground does not simply suck things down into it. The most likely reason it moved is that the original builder didn't compact the base enough, cause it's just a gate. Contractors rarely properly compact for gates, garden walls and fences.

But, even if it did, wouldn't you take a 14,000:20 bet on the $20 bracket side? I'd take that bet even if it was built in a swamp.

> Clay based soils shrink and swell

Which would cause subsidence cracking in a wall, due to unequal movement; under pin & make good etc..

it's not a wall; think on.

>What are your credentials to support your ill founded opinion?

I retired from the free advice business and will offer no further opinions. I'm sure you'll get there eventually.

Yeah I could see that. Dude might need a retaining wall. Hard to say without understanding the soil around there.

I'm most familiar and by default think about the soil around home, thick Houston black gumbo. Clayey and dense, sticks to everything and holds stuff pretty well in general. Ideal type A example imo.

Type B or C yeah I could see that being iffy. I'd try drilling in post holes and filling them and connecting it to the footing or something I guess.

Is it possible? Absolutely yes it is possible. I work on Heat exchanger systems that do exactly what you are describing.

Problem is, it is not economically viable. (For the minor convenience of controlling the flow to your coffee machine, you would be adding so much additional cost to the machine. Additionally, you would be adding alot of additional parts which could break and cause increased repair costs. Its just not worth it)

My systems i work on are for defense use. (Keeping radar systems cool so electronics dont overheat) in those cases it totally makes sense to spend thousands of dollars installing and maintaining pressurized systems that react to (temp, pressure and flow rate, and increase or decrease rpm's based on the additional cooling or pressure needs of your system during certain modes of operation. - ie if you are in southern california its much warmer than alaska. If you are operating at high power there is much more heat dissipated than in standby or low power, etc etc)

In the case of a coffee machine - you would be creating a machine that costs $800-1000 plus upkeep costs, and most folks would never want to pay that for some specialized coffee production.

Well, temporary is relative. A good foundation repair company will make this repair and back it with a lifetime warranty.

So in the sense that life is temporary you’re right.

I'd go with a cementitious grout over the "foam", but point out that while this will correct the lean temporarily, it will not address the problem of subgrade shifting. I'd also recommend something to address that, possibly driving in a corrugated steel sheet (forget the term, but essentially similar to a coffer dam), or some sort of retaining wall type feature

It is. But bell bottom piers are not suitable for all applications and the amount of excavation required for a bell bottom pier might very well undermine the column you’re trying to stabilize.

If you up the size, consider 2x12's instead of 2x10's. Also, laminating them together is easy but lifting the entire post into the hole is challenging - definitely something to think through. If you're close to home depot then I'd rent a lift. If you want a platform, I bought a 6' wide wooden spool on craigslist for $50.

Yes, I have.

The most likely explanation is unstable soils. Clay based soils shrink and swell with every wet / dry cycle. This sort of cyclical movement often leads to settlement.

And the location of the column in relationship to the surrounding soil has far more to do with how the column moves than the gate does.

And I’m not your average ordinary dullard. I’m a foundation repair professional with over 15 years in the business.

What are your credentials to support your ill founded opinion?

Coffee machines don't typically have pumps, they use heat to push the water up.

Nothing lasts forever. Every fix is 'temporary'

It could be settling, or it could be rolling over a firmer settled area. Digging a concrete bell bottom shape beneath it and filling it with concrete is a common way to increase the surface area of soil that the object is bearing on.

I copied what this guy did for the cable issue: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tZVidnXewBQ

Also check this video out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a1KPl-M-dpM&t=0s

Or leave it on and make sure someone records the whole thing to post here later.

Better idea, maybe don't offer free advice to ill-mannered dullards.

Have you thought of anything that wopuld explain it leaning away from the gate yet? It's not good.

You should hire a GOOD concrete contractor. There is a lot that can go wrong on this for a diy. You could even injure yourself.

Honestly, this is the solution I was hoping someone would suggest. I might up that to 6 of them. How did you deal with cable pinching when running it around something square?

Or maybe you should have looked at the picture before offering advice.

> and it will most likely stop subsiding

What are you basing this prediction on?

From op’s post we know the column settled. He adjusted the hinge to compensate, and now it’s settled even further.

What gives you any reason to think it’s just going to stop moving on it’s own?

Depends on what the base, I would hope it's concrete. If its concrete, dig the side that's leaning and the opposite side. You can try to use big pry bar to lift it and fill under it. It's likely too heavy for that. So you'll need an excavator or the forks of a skid steer.