googling zip line post and looking at the pictures would give you more help than making this post.

I tried those with timing belts. It seemed they were not strong enough to turn the display, which isn't that heavy, maybe 30 pounds total (roughly half a sheet of plywood).

I’m guessing this isn’t high speed or high precision movement.

8mm is 0.315”. 5/16” is 0.3125”. You could probably use a pulley with 5/16” bore and hit it with a 8mm drill bit. Set screw will take up the rest of the slop in it.

McMaster sells pulleys with 5/16” bore for under $20. Get the drill bit there too.

how about these. They have less slippage than a v pulley also.

What kind of water is it pumping? Sump pumps are dead easy. If you undo that union you can pull the whole pump out. Buy a new pump with the same dimensions, spin the MIP out of the pump, Teflon tape it, spin it into the new pump and put it back in. You might also find out that the pump is just jammed or only need to replace the float.

Edit I see it's pumping rain water into the house, cool what for?

Anyways I'm surprised you can't get a plumber this sort of thing is easy money, you should be able to figure it out yourself.

Yep get a new pump and operating float (make sure it's not a signal float - pump rated for amperage equal or in excess of the pump's FLA). Pull it out, plumb the new pump in with your ball valve check valve union as they presumably did there. Probably need some pipe a few male adapters some primer glue etc. You'll see what components you need. It's tough to plumb out of the hole usually you evacuate the tank then plumb so it all fits but still can be done. Make sure your check valve is on the discharge line below the ball valve so you can isolate it. Check valve is a must make sure it opens with the discharge flow not backwards.

You'll need to make a custom baseplate to adapt it to a standard American in wall electrical box. You'd also have to modify the bulb fixture to hold your desired bulb, but what I would recommend is adapting installing 12V led bulbs and using a transformer to power the fixtures with low voltage. That will drastically reduce the risk of messing up the modifications and burning down your house.

To my knowledge, you split that pvc union right there and pull the whole thing out. The ones I have experience with often have a pull rope right on them

I can’t comment on the compatibility of the light bulb nor the suitability of what you’re asking, but I can point out that the backplate of the U.S. version is a little over 4 inches wide and is made to mount onto a typical U.S. 4 inch electrical junction box which is embedded in the wall. The fixture’s backplate of the European version is substantially narrower so it wouldn’t fully cover a standard electrical box (and would mounting hardware line up?). The U.S. version is UL Listed to conform to U. S. safety standards and the European one is not. Notice that the U.S. version is for use with a T3 light bulb (which is 3/8” diameter) up to 200W (doesn’t sound like LED)…whereas the European one says it’s for the LED bulb (which is likely larger diameter - note the dimensions on your light bulb spec sheets. The maximum wattage ratings on the European one might be rated much lower than the U.S. version but not indicated on the European cut sheet. There are some potential issues with risk of fire, electrocution, and electrical code compliance that you [can] get further insight on. I’d recommend you contact Luce Plan tech support or a distributor to ask about your intentions to see if it’s suitable and what they recommend so you can make your decision. Also, I recommend you check with an electrician as well. I’m saying these because it’s along the lines of what my thought process would be if I were to have been asked a question like this when I owned a couple of lighting fixture manufactur[ing companies] a number of years back.

EDIT: two spots which I changed text slightly for clarity and enclosed new text in brackets.

I have used 240V light fittings fitted with a 12V LED globe in some garden lighting applications, running off a transformer.

So long as the wiring, +ve, -ve, and earth are properly connected, I don't see why you shouldn't.

Notice that the European model says that with an additional terminal strip, it is usable at 120v. But without that, it is 230v.

If you can get the terminal strip, then you can probably do it, but not without it.

Ah, you'll need something then. Excuse the long link or if it doesn't work.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FM9NB21?pd_rd_i=B08FM9NB21&pf_rd_p=4e1ed69f-9511-4631-b8a0-4f05f5875119&pf_rd_r=TT3ZFVBW5H5M3V641S1V&pd_rd_wg=4wKMC&pd_rd_w=Ob66d&pd_rd_r=9f7aa881-9d59-40b7-8aae-2b0248b2d76a

This style works really well, don't know about this exact brand since it's just a Google, but try something like that. I've found they work really well for small jobs and won't break out 3 inches of drywall if someone rips it out trying to keep from falling.

[deleted]

[deleted]

[deleted]

Welcome to DIY. Do it once, then do it again. But you learn for next time :) consider it skill building, not time or expense wasted.

[deleted]

[deleted]

They're just plastic. Use a knife or scissors.

[deleted]

1-2 towels that you won’t be careful with. Trying to hang it too thick to fit through opening, pulling the towel off in an un-gentle manner. Do it right.

[deleted]

[deleted]

How about Theatrical flats. 4x8 sheets of luan (3mm or 5mm plywood) on a frame of 1x3 or 1x4. Screw them together, and tack them to the floor, or weight them down with something heavy. An air powered brad nailer/stapler will help them go together quickly. Lots of info about this on the web. Good luck.

Who the fuck knows. Half the reviews of the product say the screws are too long. Apparently the 1-1/4” anchor comes with a 1-1/4” screw so why does the 1” anchor also come with a 1-1/4”screw?