After installing the new backer I would coat with a waterproofing agent. I always use Red Gard. It’s a rubber membrane you roll on like paint.

This is what I just did in a current bathroom remodel. The time before I tried the schluter form board and was not happy with it all all for the price.

Always use cement board in a bathroom and real wood trim, no mdf.

Backer for sure. Something like Schluter, Prova, Wedi etc

Cement board, and red guard waterproofing-- because tile and grout are not waterproof.

And it's possible that a lack of waterproofing is the reason the drywall was soft.

Other thing to watch, if you are tiling the full wall, is whether the remaining plasterboard area can take the weight. Depends on the weight of your tile (especially if porcelain) and your adhesive, but you can work it out,may require a bit of googling though

Plasterboard is on the lower end of weight capacity if i remember right. Tile backerboards higher.

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So I bought Tile backboard, and im going to fit it into placr now. Im just goi g to do the entire thing, noa messing around

Always a tile backer or waterproof/moisture resistant board in around baths and showers - it's always cheaper to do it right first time around then having to go back to put it right later. Had to redo my ensuite the plasterboard was falling to bits when I was taking off the tiles as moisture had gotten through.

It's much easier to demo tile if you just take it off with the backer board in strips.

Then just replace it all.

I know it sounds stupid but it's less mess and faster so you come out ahead in the long run.

I think cement board is always best for moisture resistance

Regarding fire risk, keep in mind if you or someone in the future installs the wrong light bulb in the fixture than what it is intended/labeled for (i.e. non LED instead of LED, or higher wattage than the fixture is rated for - even LED). Construction and labeling between these two fixtures are not the same, I suspect. Side note: even though LED is lower wattage it might get hot from a fixture testing standpoint so be sure to go with rated wattage per fixture manufacturer regardless.

Yeah, I didn't notice that. If you're not modifying the socket and the US bulb fits it, this should work fairly easily. The wires might be different, but the international model is rated for a higher voltage. So you're fine from that regard. And at 20W, you're fine with whatever gauge wires they used. This should work.

Not at all on digging up the tank.

And a signal float is intended for a control panel where it sends signal to a relay etc for a control panel. Not enough juice to run a pump... CV byBut if you just tell them you need a float switch, that's what you're going to get. You need to tell them you need a wide angle pump rated float or an operating switch.

Thanks for all the detailed insight. I think the USA LED bulb looks to be the same lengthen and socket type as the Int’l version but the backing plate is certainly an item I would need to address in order to be in compliance and avoid fire risk. I am awaiting a response from the manufacturer and will contact an Electrian I know.

The Amazon USA compatible bulb I linked uses the same socket type and is the same length as the European light bulb.

I can put a low voltage LED bulb in any light socket I have in the USA without issue. would I really have an issue if I use the appropriate USA LED bulb for the Int’l model?

Wouldn’t I just need to modify the baseplate as the electrical wires between the models would not be different?

Thx. What do you mean no signal float? Also is excavating the tank necessary? Mine is made of concrete

It’s rain water for the toilets, washing machine and yard taps. When making the replacement should I empty the tank?

Is the display balanced? Doesn't have to be exact but the closer it is the easier it is for the motor to turn.

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/59/6f/f6/596ff65c7f781fc1ec465c684993d452.jpg

https://i.pinimg.com/474x/f3/65/1e/f3651e10df09ebdf63acf701720416f9.jpg

or this https://everythingbackyard.net/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/dead-man-anchor.jpg

You dont want the cable to be stretched against a 90 degree corner on the wood post, so no hole in post with cable run through it. The cable elongates and retracts in size, it also stretches from bearing weight. Rubbing against the wood over time will deform it and weaken it. Putting it on an upside down pully as shown in one of the images above would work better. Or looping a chain around the post and then attaching to that with a hook and turn buckle would be what I prefer on my build. You tighten the turn buckle to account for any changes in cable length. It gets surprisingly smaller during colder times.

I prefer an A frame, you need 300lbs of concrete atleast in a 2ft radius of a foundation, buried about 2 feet of dirt so there is no movement. Two 2x4 kickers from the foundations out at a 45degree angle to the top of the 6x6 post.

Doing a single 6x6 post at a slight angle forwards with an pully at top, with the cable running over and behind, attaching to a 300+ lb concrete foundation buried a ways underground is the most efficient, I just dont like it for some reason.

What happened when you attempt to turn the display with those belts? The ability to turn the feature depends on the torque of the motor and the ratio of the pulleys. If your sign is mounted on free turning bearings it should only have to provide enough torque to overcome the inertia of the feature. It should take minimal power to rotate it once it's moving. How much does the feature weigh, what type of bearings is it mounted on, what ratio are your pulleys, how much torque does your motor supply, how many RPMs does the motor turn at and how many RPMs would you like your feature to turn at?

I've been looking at a lot of pictures and videos on this but wanted a discussion to go along with that to further my understanding of other's perspectives/solutions to this.

Oh, that is awesome! Thanks!

McMaster has them for 2L or 3L belts which are 1/4” or 3/8”, with 5/16” bore.

Try part 6245k314 for example.

5/16 is a good idea, thanks. I think the problem I'm having is everything I'm finding for a v belt (mostly A type, 1/2") is on a 1/2" or larger bore, while the smaller pulleys (6mm and up) use PU Round belts.