It's water soluble. Should be easy to remove

Redo it before you waste even more time grouting it. It’s only 5sq ft. Shouldn’t take more than a few minutes to scrape the bad stuff off…

Because the falling tile can chip the counter top. Also it's annoying to mix up a tiny batch of thinset, grout, and applying grout sealer twenty different times over the next few years will be a massive PITA. Just get it done right once now.

Shot is water soluble so yeah, start over

You have to take it down unfortunately

I’d say, if a tile falls off, glue it back on with the right stuff. If it doesn’t fall off, why force the issue?

I'm with ya in this one.

It's a backsplash not a steam shower.

Run it.

Yeah you're fucked. Start over

We do it nice 'cause we do it twice!

Oh yeah, those things will pop off easy. Might chip the first couple but after that a flexible scraper will pop the rest off no damage.

I’m gonna disagree with all these guys, you should be able to tell how bonded it should be tomorrow and decide then whether to redo. My bet is with enough surface tension it should stay stuck, I mean it’s already done, what is the benefit of not experimenting

Premixed wet stuff? Or the Easy Sand/Durabond setting type compound? If the latter you may be ok.

Complete write-off. Mist the tiles if you can. Take the tiles out and clean them. Remove all remaining drywall compound from the tiles and the wall and start over using the proper adhesive. No other option, my friend.

Hey, that's a good call.

They should come up pretty easy too. If OP can get under them, probably wont need to smash em all out.

Then a bucket and a scrub brush should clean em right up.

Very screwed. At least you got some practice for the real install! I did mine twice too 👌

[deleted]

The reason is that drywall compound isn’t adhesive- it’s shaped dust. Those tiles are coming off the wall one way or another

Haha….it’s all good bro!

Tear it out. Luckily if it's just drywall mud you can soak it and clean the tile. No blood no penalty, right?

Pretty screwed. Definitely going to want to rip it out and redo if you expect any longevity.

Definitely!!!!!!

You should redo.

• You are asking about a project that someone else did.
• You are not asking a question relating to something DIY.
• You are not asking a question at all.
• You are submitting a "DIY Tips" or "Tricks" post.
• You are trying to submit a survey / fundraiser.
• You are asking what an item is called - try /r/whatisthisthing.
• /r/DIY allows only two types of posts - finished projects & help requests.
• If your submission is neither of these - it will be removed.

Please read our guidelines before resubmitting.

If you believe this was a mistake, please message the moderators.

Get this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-36-in-x-3-4-in-x-1-16-in-Aluminum-Square-Tube-801287/204274003 3/4" Internet SKU 204274003

and this

https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-16-in-x-1-2-in-x-36-in-Plain-Steel-Square-Tube-801267/204225723 1/2" Internet SKU 204225723

Aluminum tube is the hangar, the smaller steel tube fits inside as the "drawer slide". Set depth on table saw to cut a channel centerline the full length. Drill 4 holes on the opposite side to attach under cabinet.

Drawer. Drill holes along the length for tool hanging hooks (machine thread). Use a straight rod with a nut (for hooks) hotglued to rod to fish into the tube so you can thread the hook to the nut. Use RED loctite on nut and hook threads to allow it to swivel but never unthread.

Now you have a sturdy rail that slides in and out and removable. Go to larger size tubes if you need to hang heavier stuff.

Larger outer tube should be aluminum since you can cut it with a wood blade on table saw and not mess up the blade. You can shift the fence to make the groove wide enough for the bolts to slide easily in the gap.

If you're looking for something low profile I feel traditional drawer hardware isn't the solution.

Instead there may be rail type hardware. Try looking for a "linear rail". Similar to how pocket door hardware works, but inverse.