Either get a new seat or new hardware.

You can take a drill with a long screw and screw it into the hole’s it will essentially tap out and then you pull it apart.

Well, you're gonna be hard pressed to find an alternative to chains, for their weight and even loading. Really you can hang anything from the barbell that'll progressively add weight as it comes off the floor, but chains are great due to the fact that they're relatively heavy for their size and provide a constant resistance change

Industrial Rope are a great idea

>the more they go up in height

Weight? Heavy industrial rope, cable?

Chains are far and away the most readily-available, lowest-cost system for what you're looking to accomplish if you're not going to use resistance bands.

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You need somewhere to be sucking the air from or you won't be getting that water out.

Conversely, most water supplies are blown out for winterization. If you can apply compressed air somewhere and blow it out the tap.

I already have them. I'm doing the conjugate system and I need both 😂

Curious as to why you'd avoid bands. They are one of the few simple things you can use to accomplish what you want and they're dirt cheap lol

If it’s an interior door, just carefully detach the molding around the wall adjacent to the door with a sharp knife. (The molding is attached to the wall using very small nails, so detaching the molding shouldn’t take too much force). That will give you access to the latch. Then use a screwdriver to push out the latch out of the wall to open the door. Once opened, you can disassemble the doorknob from the inside.

Attach the molding back, using either a small rubber hammer or even just your hand so that you don’t damage the paint. Repainting can be a PITA, as even if you perfectly match the color it could still stand out.

Did this multiple times when I lived in an apartment and locked myself out of the room. If don’t correctly, it should cost you nothing and can be done fairly quickly.

Exterior doors are a different story. That would be the only time, I’d be spending money on a locksmith or hacking the door handle apart. Doing that on an interior door is just unnecessarily risking damage to the door and surrounding walls.

Turn off the main water supply to the house. Also, close the supply valve to your water heater, just to isolate it.

Open an interior tap. Backfeed compressed air (about 20-40PSI) into the spigot. This will push the water down the supply piping.

When air starts spitting out of the interior tap, close the ball valve for the exterior line. Turn on the house supply, wait for the air to burp out, then shut off the interior tap and open the water heater.

Great problem solving!

>> as it burst previously in 2021.

You'd think the plumber who fixed it the first time would have replaced it with a frost free spigot or at least a shutoff with bleeder on the inside of the house. Guess he wanted to keep you as a customer for the next year.

Excellent help here.

By the way, "flathead" does not refer to the kind of screwdriver end that you turn the screw with. It refers to the way the head of the screw interfaces with the surface you're mounting in. A flathead screw is flat across. For comparison of the concept, look at a round head screw. The head comes up from the mounting surface and there's almost a half sphered of metal there. Its finish is round. An oval head has a finish shape between flathead and round head.

What you're talking about is variously called a slot drive. As google says elsewhere, "Slot screw drives have a single horizontal indentation (the slot) in the fastener head and is driven by a "common blade" or flat-bladed screwdriver."

Don't worry about this too too much. It's a common error.

I don't know shit about fuck, but it I don't think a shop vac is gonna clear water out of the line. If it were me, I'd cut off water, open the spigot, and also open some other tap further up the line. Then I'd jam a blower nozzle on a compressor into the spigot and blow the water back up the pipe. Maybe wrap some duct tape around the nozzle to get a bit more oomph on it.

What does the line supply? If you open the tap just a bit, all it takes is a slow drip, it won’t freeze.

Yeah, my suggestion wouldn't be applicable then. Good luck.

Some door knob/handles have either a pin or a couple spring loaded latches to hold the handle on. Maybe you could just remove the knob/handle so you can get to the mechanical section of the latch.

1. I don't recommend SharkBites for permanent installations. Search here, you will see many of the same opinion.

2. I don't think you will get much water out with a vacuum. You might take the valve apart (i.e. unscrew the top portion) and may get a little more water out.

I'm in the North East, I've purchased foam covers for the outside spigots. Google "outdoor spigot covers for winter freeze protection"

I would cut it off and install an Anti-Siphon Sillcock Frost Free Outdoor Faucet. It will save you any headache.

You are also going to need air to get into the line, or the shop vac is pulling on one side of a hydraulic cylinder, the water will win.

Get some of the smallest diameter tubing you can find, feed that into the pipe, as far at the shutoff valve if possible, the use the shop vac, should be able to get most of the water out.

Once empty, get a Sharkbite bleeder valve.

At least you weren't trapped inside the room!

That happened to me when we were renting a house. Myself, my wife and my two kids ( age2 and 4) were in the babies room and the door closed. The knob just spun when I went to open it.

No keys, so going out the window wouldn't matter. No phones, couldn't call anyone. No tools, it was a child's room.

I ended up taking the curtain rod off it's bracket and punching a series of holes through the door in a semi circle around the knob. Eventually I got the knob to fall out.

My landlord laughed at the story and replaced all the interior knobs in the house after that.

Crowbar between the knob and baseplate. Gently pry until the door latch clears the plate. Then your door is open and easy to replace the knob.

I've opened an interior door like this with a butter knife, but a crowbar is easier.

Edit: just saw you got it open. I'll leave the post up for future reference.

If the door trim is blocking the latch, gently remove the trim with a flathead screwdriver. Cut an old card to look like this, use the lip of the cut card to slide the latch back into the door. You may even be able to do it with a tiny screwdriver.

Here is a good video covering what you're looking to do