Recent comments in /f/DIY

surfboardman t1_j0q2z3w wrote

I’m a handyman and I’ve never seen that kind of fill valve, the other guys are right, put in a new basic one, it will have a little finger twist knob, or a screwdriver plastic bolt to raise and lower the level of the water.Ray

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shoziku t1_j0prx3i wrote

Reply to comment by [deleted] in Fix running toilet? by [deleted]

Reach in there and lift the float manually. If the water does not shut off then the fill valve is bad. If it does shut off when you lift it then it's just a matter of adjusting it.

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gladmonkey t1_j0pgp7r wrote

Reply to comment by [deleted] in Fix running toilet? by [deleted]

Just replace the fill valve. It’s super easy and some don’t even require tools. Takes like 10 minutes.

I’ve had this happen to a couple toilets and it sounds to me like your fill valve is failing.

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Some1StoleMyRedBike t1_j0pg893 wrote

Seems like others have given the probable cause and fix. If not working with adjustment, just replace it. Not sure your locale, but my local hardware store sells a base model for $12. Or Amazon/online. Float valve is the name I believe. Easy replacement - turn off, and the disconnect water line at toilet after you flush to empty reservoir, unscrew the whole valve from underside of res (good idea to have towel/bucket for small residual water), replace and screw in new one and reattach water line. Shouldnt be more than 20mins if never done it before. Any other questions should be easy to address here. Good luck!

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Frosty-Start-4559 t1_j0pbvoy wrote

I have the same valve in one of my toilets. There is a clip on the float where it attaches to the lever arm. Lower the float, and then make sure the float is not obstructed by the hose or the side of the tank as it raises. Flush the toilet after you adjust the float and see if it shuts the water off. BTW, mine seemed inconsistent with shutting off just today, so I plan to replace this valve, they do wear out or get built up with sediment. Usually only $20 +/- for replacement.

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OTee_D t1_j0p2d59 wrote

Reply to comment by [deleted] in Fix running toilet? by [deleted]

Without being there : DOWN.

The black box is likely a buoancy device/swimmer.

Water flows in, box get's "pressed" upwards. When the water raises to a certain level the box is so far up that it closes the valve. Usually over some sort of lever mechanism.

Yours isn't closing the valve completely, so water keeps flowing in and then leaves through the overflow.

Possible causes

  • The box lost it's buoancy, if it is a container, it has a hole or something like that. UNLIKELY, because it more or less wouldn't work at all.

  • The box lost the right position. These things can come lose and then aren't closing the valve early enough. This can be adjusted by moving it in reference to the lever system (your up/down). By moving it down, it will "swim" earlier and close the valve earlier. LIKELY cause.

  • Defect O ring, the inflow valve of course contains sealants, O rings. Maybe the lever pushes it shut like it should, but still a tiny amount of water comes in. POSSIBLE you would need to change the seals or even the inner mechanism of the water box.

  • The mechanism got scaled, over time a crust of minerals accumulated and prevents the valve from closing. Give a good amount of citric or vinegar acid in the water tank and let it fill (Or special anti scaling stuff) POSSIBLE

Easiest way to figure out what might be the issue:

Empty the water tank(flush) and when it keeps filling see if raising to he black box /swimmer by hand closes the valve at some point. Then you verified that all seals work and scaling is not an issue. If it doesn't close no matter if the swimmer goes up then the issue is with the valve.

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chrispurcell t1_j0oyduq wrote

It appears full, so if the water is running into the center overflow pipe, you need to adjust the float arm to trigger earlier. Most have a screw for adjustment but I can't see well enough from the picture to make further recommendation.

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FabioTheGeek t1_j0oxxfn wrote

I would suggest replacing your fill valve, most of the time your old valve overfills the tank because the diaphragm inside has gone bad. They are cheap and easy to replace plus added peace of mind.

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dominus_aranearum t1_j0n6dxf wrote

>OUTLETS is the key word you changed.

Good lord. I didn't change anything. YOU are misunderstanding what the definition of 'outlet' is in the NEC.

NEC Article 100 defines an “Outlet” as a point on the wiring system at which current is taken to supply utilization equipment. The term “outlet” is often misused to refer to receptacles. Receptacle outlets are only one type of outlet. Other types of outlets include lighting outlets, appliance outlets, smoke alarm outlets, equipment outlets and so on.

A lighting outlet is an outlet intended for the direct connection of a lampholder, a luminaire or a pendant cord terminating in a lampholder. Luminaires can be ceiling-, wall- or even floor-mounted (See Figure 2). While the wiring for lighting outlets can terminate in outlet boxes and in other boxes under certain conditions, it can also terminate in junction boxes of luminaires.

So, in short, just because you don't understand what 'outlet' means in the context of the NEC, doesn't make what I wrote wrong. If you're still adamant, go ask someone in /r/electricians. I've been through hundreds of inspections, have you?

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imanze t1_j0lqgs7 wrote

that’s not the wording of the code. Exception: Where the 20-ampere circuit supplies a single bathroom, outlets for other equipment within the same bathroom shall be permitted to be supplied in accordance with 210.23(A)(1) and (A)(2).

OUTLETS can be shared, OUTLETS is the key word you changed.

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