Know your limits, ask for help

Lefty loosey, righty tighty

If you're looking for a handout, look at the end of your wrist

Measure twice. Cut once.

From my dad: “If it’s worth doing, it’s worth doing right.”

if you can't work and talk, shut up.

Cordless hammer drills suck. Plug in hammer drills are only slight better. Go rent a sds hammer drill from your local hardware store. It will go through it like butter. Even my Ryobi bottom of the line plugin sds will chew through concrete like nobody's business

You also need to make sure the rest of the ductwork can handle the increase in pressure from closing off one of the ducts.

I've seen more than a few main ducts burst open because people thought they could just cover a register or two in rooms they weren't using and didn't take into account that the blower was still trying to move the same volume of air through less openings.

You could just use a cap of the proper diameter for the flex to seal it (using tape and panduit strap). Best way would be to pull the flex out and seal the hole in the ductwork with a sheet metal patch.

I’m able to push the latch inwards a little way, but can’t manage to get it all the way retracted.

Since it's just a latch and not a dead bolt - can't you use the old credit card trick and try to push the latch back from the jamb side? Or is the entire latch locked in place?

Once the door opens, you should have access to replace the latch mechanism

Not sure if you’re still working on this. I had a similar problem. Oddly enough the manufacturer customer service told me to basically push so hard on the door handle you’ll think you’re breaking it. Eventually it’ll give way and loosen.

I did WD40, removed the handle, and everything else except take the door off the hinges. The aggressive push down was what finally worked.

Thanks for responding. I’ll give this a try first thing.

I think this may be what I’ll have to do. Thanks for the response.

Good one. I did the same.

Good to hear.

Can confirm this as a great "go for it diy" option.
My handles got really stiff and the locks wouldn't engage properly.
Squirted wd40 in every hole I could find and gave it a good tug up and down, inside and out.
Feels like a new door now.

I'm going to guess that the continual running is due to a worn out flapper not providing a good seal. They will wear out due to the chlorine in the water supply and there are chemical resistant models. Try putting some food coloring in the tank and see if the water is coming from the under-rim ports.

Can you spray wd40 or something into the locking mechs? Then lift handle up and down and hopefully it'll be all loosey goosey.

I can’t tell from that picture what I’m looking at, but I had my back door got stuck closed, and had to take it off its hinges because I couldn’t get the latch on the doorknob to release. Exterior doors are heavy, so I suggest you enlist a friend to help. Once it was off it’s hinges, I could remove the door and then knob, which I replaced. If your hinges are painted over, it will be more of a challenge. Mine was a newer steel door and I got the hinge pins out without a huge effort.

In my experience the water valve will start leaking from the valve itself outside of the toilet . I've never had on of those valves close and not leak. I think my failure rate is 10 out of 11

Try lightly tapping/jiggling the flush handle. If that works you probably just need to adjust the length of the chain connecting the flush handle to the flapper valve a touch longer.

Take the flap out and wash it with soapy water until its really clean and replace it

This won't work if the fill valve has failed, and it's pretty common for that to happen on these. Sometimes it just needs to be cleaned out real quick, but often it just makes more sense to replace it.

If by running you mean it flushes and refills on its own every so often (called a ghost flush), try pulling that white hose out of the tube a bit.