Recent comments in /f/DIY

Scooter_127 t1_j0v6nnt wrote

You would need to get your hands on a soldering iron but be aware that the wires in earbuds, and even expensive regular headphones, is super, super thing and a real pain in the neck to deal with.

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WKS01 t1_j0v44t4 wrote

Since you say it is a small bathroom originally you would be most likely fine to block the vent off with no real impact. If I had to guess that vent gets maybe 30-50 cfm and is probably less than a 5” duct. Your blower fan will not blow up, your system will adjust itself to the removed duct and the small amount of air will redistribute. Pressure increase would be negligible. While this is not the “proper” way it will work. Best way to block off the run is get as close to the main trunk as you can and use a cap. Second best is to at least get away from the flex duct and on the hard duct again where you can use a cap, I would attempt to avoid just zip tying that off.

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[deleted] t1_j0uz22a wrote

there is the saying "everything is bigger in texas", and that generally can extend to the size of someone's house, height of ceilings etc in many cases. this means that while wiping all the windows daily might be an effective fix for a small to medium sized home or apartment, it could be a big hassle for a family home.

personally, my solution has always been either opening the place up briefly like you said, or a big honking dehumidifier that can hold a few gallons of water, so you only have to empty it out occasionally.

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pinguemcecidero t1_j0uxf3x wrote

There are several remedies for this. It's not your seal. As another commenter said it's humidity inside. Open your windows for a little bit in the morning (like 10 minutes), you can put bowls of salt on the sills (never done this but apparently it helps), you can get moisture absorption beads. When I lived in England where this is very common in the winter, I just had a towel and dried them every day. It's not a huge deal, especially if it's only for a week.

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MattsAwesomeStuff t1_j0ufg6k wrote

> Closing just one duct has tripped my blower fan in the past from the change in air pressure.

That's not how motor load on a fan works.

The more you block it up, the lower power the fan consumes.

This is counterintuitive to some people, but is a fact.

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Bldaz t1_j0u9cbv wrote

The door handle has some integral flush bolts that latch in the center of the jamb. My guess is that when it was pushed downward it revolved too far. The post on taking the hinge pins out is the best bet then figure out how to release the latches once it’s off

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tatpig t1_j0u6qfz wrote

i hate Tapcon style screws of any brand. they are prone to wringing off the heads. that said, a lil bit of bar soap applied to the threads before driving them can help greatly. if you switch to 1/4 inch wedge anchors,be aware that care must be taken pounding them in,as they are easily bent with an errant hammer strike.good luck!

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D4greatness t1_j0tzt8l wrote

What everyone seems to be missing here is it isn’t about how many vents, it’s about how many cfm. 1 vent could be 100cfm another could be more or less. Before you add or remove ductwork you need to know the requirements of your particular house and hvac system . A property installed system has a balance that is critical for functionality and efficiency Find a good hvac contractor that can do this math before you remove it.

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BxMxK t1_j0tjk9x wrote

Really depends on the unit.

Multi-zone units typically have variable speed motors.

Single zone units usually have single speed motors. Some have blowers mounted directly on the motor shaft. Some are belt driven. With a belt drive you have a little flexibility to swap pulleys to adjust he cfm.

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OhmLtd t1_j0t9x43 wrote

Your probably not using the hammer drill correctly as well. The bounce part of a hammer drill needs to be allowed to bounce. People always try to push hammer drills into the concrete which does not allow the tool to do its job. The drill bit needs to bounce up and down as you drill. Most holes can be drilled quickly using only the weight of the hammer drill by itself while you're just hold it in place steering the bit.

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Drill in a 1/2" deeper than you need and don't worry about cleaning the dust out of the holes, who cares if dust is in the bottom of the hole as long as the bolt sets where it needs to set.

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OhmLtd t1_j0t8sat wrote

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Take whatever your using out of the holes. Go to home depot and buy appropriate sized Redhead wedge anchor bolts. Go home and tap them all the way in with a sledge hammer. Before you hit the Redhead's back the nut off the threads a bit before hitting. Position the nut so the hammer cannot hit the threads, if the threads get mangled you have a heck of a time getting the nut on or off again. Tighten the nut down with a ratchet or wrench until you cannot tighten it anymore. 2 to 3 inch anchor bolts will more than likely be enough maintain railing post integrity if someone put their entire weight on it in any direction.

Retail hardware stores don't carry industrial epoxies, I've tried multiple retail box store epoxies and they all failed in short time (excluding JB Weld... good stuff, unfortunately they don't make concrete epoxies that I'm aware of. Unless you have access to industrial grade epoxies go with the wedge bolts.

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Aurum555 t1_j0t7xqr wrote

This only works with a well insulated house otherwise you end up just spending extra money for your system to fight itself,that said I'm insanely jealous, and want to reinsulate my e tire house so I can even dream of doing something like that.

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