Hold on real quick, wait, hear me out.

All that needs to be sanded away is the protective floor coating for you to proceed. In my experience, it's a kind of shiny polyurethane coating. You will know you're at the base/raw wood's level when there is no more shine and it "feels" like wood again rather than it would be the usual physical feeling of a wood floor, like it feels glossy. I hope that can make sense.

That's all you really need to sand away. I wouldn't worry about the paint. Once you have that protective coating off and the raw wood is unearthed and it feels smooth you can go ahead and stain it. The stain will take away all those paint stains etc.

In any case, staining the floor with wood stainer is probably something I'd imagine you'd planned to proceed with anyways ? If you are unsure you can do a little test area to see if the wood takes the stain. No harm if it doesn't because you can just wipe it away.

Source: My uncle is a wood floor guy and we did some floors together at one point.

That's my fault thought this was a different sub lmao.

You need some cement/ mortar plasticiser.

Nothing wasted, it's just a PITA, and no client, it's all my own stuff. I just want to make it easier for me

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Slow pour like you would a beer. And remember rushing projects only ends up costing you or the client, this time it was potentially wasted product, next time could be a structural support buckling, slow and smooth is fast.

Nitroglycerin?

Neverwet

This. No coating will fix what you started wrong to begin with

For starters, pour the concrete in slowly and allow it to mix evenly, not just dump it all in.

Drum sander, do 40, 80 grit, edger same. Use bright light and mark the floor after each pass. Go with the grain, unless you need to go deep, but never more than 45 degrees against the grain, unless you are shooting for industrial look. If you've never done this before, get someone who has.

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Right side is a knockout.

Bottom right looks like the dryer vent. The drain is the cutout next to the hot/cold lines. Looks like a plug there

This is the "annoying" part I was referring to. Eventually I'd like to have a space just for welding, grinding, anything that will spark, all of it ventilated and away from explody stuff. That's a luxury for me, and an impossibility for many people so yeah, stick is simple, and a GREAT way to learn, but to be safe about it there's other steps involved, and with it raining most of the year and the stuff that sparks would damage in the limited indoor space, it's a hassle and checking the weather report for a good portion of the year. Summer, yeah, that's easy, just keep it away from the grass and hydrate, every other part of the year, pain in the bits.

Yes. What everyone else said. Pull out the cover and that's the drain. Make sure you secure the drain hose to something. They tend to kick themselves out if the are not secured to something.

Should be at the bottom right inset below the round knockout.

Just pop out the plug covering the drain

Are you sure the opening on the right is a blank? It looks like there is a cover that should pop off where the drain hose will go

The right opening has a round cover in the bottom. Can you pull it up with the plastic stalk? Maybe with pliers?

Maybe they covered the hole up so sewer gases don’t go into the house.

[deleted]

Years ago I worked as an residential electrician's helper in high school and college. About 10 years in total.

If the light fixture is heavy you may want to place some thin metal/plastic stripping between the ears of the new Old Work Box and the sheetrock. Heavy fixtures tend to do exactly what this one did over time. Placing something rigid between the sheetrock and the ears prevents this by increasing surface area and keeping the edge of the ears from cutting through the sheetrock.

Most hardware stores sell some sort of flat strip with holes in it. Cut the strip to length, and use a finishing nail (very thin, easily pushed through/removed from sheetrock) to hold the strip in place while you place the box.

NOTE: Make sure the nail will not mar a wire.

TIP: Try to Find an area that will be covered by the fixture and place the nail there.

Once the box is installed and the ears are holding the strip in place, remove the nail.

There are other methods to keep the strip from falling into the void, but this one is easy if the holes can be hidden.

Use some caulking around edges to help grab the box inplace with new box. Hopefully you get one that has the small lip. You could also use spray foam to help set it...but that can make a real mess of things if not careful.

As others have said the issue you might have is where your light fixture attaches to the electric box. If it has the round washer type flange that attaches to box and then screw from light connect to the washer flange, you should have play to rotate new box to get good grab. If the light attaches directly to box, you may have to get creative on repair.

The "wings" are pretty generic. You could buy two single gang boxes (2 wings each) and transfer the 3 wings you need to your box.

And, it should be obvious from what happened, but don't drive the screws so hard that the wings break off or the drywall gets crushed! Just snug... Not the place to try out your new Christmas impact driver!

You will have a minor problem mounting your light fixture - some want the mounting holes to be in one location (vertical or horizontal) and some have rotating mounting plates that don't care how the box is oriented. If you have the first type, rotate the electrical box 180 degrees - since it has three wings, that should give them all some drywall to attach to. You might have to turn the power off and loosen the wires. If the light fixture is adaptable to any angle, then you have nothing to worry about...

That's good. Both my nearby HD and Lowes have been low on all junction box stock for a while now.