Get a pair of 2x6 boards and a BFH. Put a board on either side and pound away with the BFH.

If you want to use ratchet straps, use them to secure the boards to the beam like a sandwich.

Nice work OP! It seems your shed is set back a bit further than most. Did you have special codes make it that far from the lot line/easement?

Hey not that bad honestly! If you had started this a year earlier those prices would easily be 2x more than THAT! Great job though btw!

The cost in food was definitely worth it, and you're right that I should have included that in my breakdown. Honestly I was just happy they gave up a corner of their yard for me to work in :)

From their perspective, I dug a giant litterbox, built a giant cat tree, then covered it all up and took it away :(

Thank you for this! I'm turning my shed into an office, and this just gave me a ton ideas/help

> Perfect square doesn't happen.

This. Whenever I'm feeling like my own work isn't as perfect as I'd like, I go look at the sheds on display at Home Depot or Lowes, or look at the framing of a professionally-built new construction home... it's all way worse than what I did for my shed/workshop!

Caulk, trim, and drywall will cover up a heck of a lot, and professionally-built structures rely on this fact quite a bit as well.

Working with lumber is an imperfect endeavor anyway... Despite my best attempts to get pieces that are actually straight and not full of moisture ("KD" stamp doesn't seem to mean much these days), I've had a lot warp/twist/shrink by the time I get it cut and assembled. All within a usable tolerance though. I see the same or worse in other structures I look at.

You can control it with an independent thermostat dedicated to the floor elements. Just set it to "on" instead of "auto".

come to my house. I need help.

Very nice. Concrete pad and all! And here I am just on pressure-treated skids over gravel.

You could try to circulate the warm air away from the thermostat... Else the laws of thermodynamics won't play. Another easier method would be slippers for walking indoors without overheating the room or getting cold feet.

That’s exactly what I’m afraid of and seeing if anyone knows ways to fix this? It’s mounted into the cement below and into the roof above.

You realize that if you attempt to pull it out with the car, as it is only as secure as the mounting points…the whole unit may very well give way?

Keeping floor warm without overheating the room will physically not be possible (at least in a somewhat mondern house... or well... if you open the windows or turn on the AC or something it might work, but not recommended).

Most of my house has a ceramics floor. Bedrooms have vinyl and that feels a lot softer/warmer to the Touch even if the floor heating isnt on.

I do not know how houses are build in your region, or what alternatives are reasonable on the market, but in my area 100% of the houses in the last years are floor heated.

Not really possible, except maybe in an outdoor space because tile is a relatively effective conductor of heat, while air is an insulator. This means that if the tile and the air are the exact same temperature (22⁰C) and you will feel a chill from the tile while you were comfortable with the air. Unless you are constantly circulating the air in the room to replace it with cooler air, eventually the in-floor heating will have to turn off otherwise the air will continue to heat to the temp of the tile - which will be too warm.

Definitely.

First of all, I paid a lot more for the lumber in June/July than I would if it were happening now. Lumber prices came down a lot from 2021 into 2022, but they're continuing to drop. I was paying about $6 per 2x4 and $25 for 7/16 OSB, and I think that's more like $4 and $15 now.

Secondly, I think a little bit of cost could be saved by buying in bulk. I was kind of figuring each step as I went, so I really only bought things one step at a time. If were to make a list of everything beforehand and order it at once, I think there'd be a discount there.

As for making design changes:

I think the easiest first step would be simplifying the framing. I could have built the walls with studs at 24" instead of 16", used a single top plate on the walls, and put the rafters directly on top of studs. I probably didn't need to use two king studs on each side of the double door, I probably didn't need a solid sandwich header above the door and window on the load bearing walls. Making all those changes would probably cut the framing step costs by 25-30%, and I imagine it would still be plenty strong for the size that it is.

I chose to sheath the walls with OSB, then use a vapor barrier, then put on siding, but a person could also just put the siding directly onto the studs, especially if they weren't planning on heating or cooling it. I think most people would consider that good enough for a shed.

On the subject of choosing not to heat or cool the shed -- if a person decided up front they didn't were never going to heat it, that would save money on roof vents and the ice and water shield on the roof.

Removing the windows would save a lot of cost -- first, there's the cost of the windows themselves, but there's also costs from extra framing, extra trim, all the flashing tape, etc.

The double door could be simplified a lot. A 2x4 box with just a piece of siding on it would probably be good enough. Maybe one cross support in the center, and a turnbuckle diagonally to prevent sagging. Plus those hinges I used cost about $30 each, and I needed 6 of them. I could have just used regular shed door hinges -- I think those cost closer to $30 for a complete set.

One relatively small thing that would have saved me money is nails vs screws -- I chose to do all the framing and sheathing and everything using #9 "GRK Multipurpose Screws". Those are special screws that are approved for use in framing, and cost like 15 cents a pop as a result. I wanted to do screws because it gave me the chance to take things apart and redo things. All the pros use nails, which are cheaper and probably better suited to framing anyway. Heck, I probably could have bought a framing nailer and used framing nails and still ended up paying less than how much I paid for screws.

There are probably other things I'm not thinking of, but those are the things that spring to mind.

Ok so aside from the awesome job you did, how much did it cost you to have the furry inspectors on site supporting you throughout the project ?

The do not seem to appear on your cost list.

Did you bribe them with food?

Excellent work!

Perfect square doesn't happen.

Yours is as close as you'll ever get unless your pour, grade and everything else was perfect as well. Which is, fyi, impossible.

Great pictures, great work.

Damn dude you killed it, nice work

If you're talking about the picture when I was plumbing up the framed walls -- that was the very last corner, and I couldn't get it any more plumb than that without throwing off one of my other walls. I was just happy it was within the lines, even if it wasn't perfectly centered haha

Try reading before commenting.

"This shed has been brought to you by the cleaning power of ShamWow. When I need to clean a surface, I reach for the convenient and powerful ShamWow..."

Yeah I definitely need to figure out a solution to that before springtime. I'm thinking a couple pieces of aluminum tucked behind the sheathing, sticking out in such a way that they cover the top and bottom gaps. Either that or I feed the cats less, and let them sort the mice out :/

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Amazing work. Only bummer is the board and batten.... I HATE board and batten. No matter how much maintenance I did water found its way in and rots the Battens on my laat house...... but you did amazing! Just try to make those battens water tight