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Start with enough for a TKL, end with enough for a 40.

Quite pricey.

This is true. Once they sell a certain volume level companies should test the PCBs they send out. (And they do) Now keyboard PCBs are really on the easy to make side, but still this is some kind of minimum quality control as PCBs can be faulty sometimes.

Batch processing is where it's at.

How do you do that? Check continuity for everything?

I was going to say, "pics or I don't believe you". But, it's a good thing NK is active on here. It absolutely looks like you flubbed up the socket by repeatedly missing it. The pins on a switch have made me bleed before, so stabbing a delicate socket numerous times could do the trick.

It sucks that it's messed up, but what's more messed up is bashing a credible company on Reddit for your own wrong-doing.

Now that I've seen it from NK's perspective I can see why they were adamant about it being the user's fault. They brought their receipts.

We test PCBs not because it comes from "unreputable" GB but because they all made in China on mass and go on a long bumpy journey afterwards. "Very well known vendor" makes not much difference.

Checking the PCB is a staple routine for many reasons.

pics worth a thousand words bought from u many many times ( have the OG stickers to prove it) and never had an issue with CS

At some point anyone working with keyboards should own a soldering iron.

Even the sound of finger on the top of the keycaps is THOCC Also use as an eraser to put some lube on the cake cast

Get a lube station makes it 100 times easier

Obligatory Group Buy PSA

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Sings while working “I’m living my stabs, just living my stabs”… now you’re on the no fly list.

I agree that it’s the best approach to make sure you have no issues but then again, how you can prove you didn’t assemble it and just took it apart.

Yes some plates (mostly metal with coating) will have scratch marks, but you can carefully disassemble the board and they can’t prove you assembled it.

My KBD67 Lite for example doesn’t show scratch marks even though I use metal switch puller.

Damaged socket will have signs like a mark of the pin pushing it.

So either OP damaged the board and complaining because he didn’t read the manual (and showing us 1 side), or NK refused to replace a faulty product on the grounds that other customers usually damage it this way.

Someone tell Glarses to make an entire keyboard out of Krytox205g0

~$40 each

I put down 3 bowls: one for stems and two for housings then bag lube springs then just start lubing and putting together switches while i watch a taeha or alexotos vod c:

That's a pretty good use of spare time tbh

And this truly worse than "poor".

It's more unfortunate when customer do not accept his fault regardless of the evidence and make awful conclusions. I wrote this after seeing the evidence provided.

Blame the vendor over everything right?

https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/zx1oac/comment/j1yvzv1/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3

All part of the process. Helps you appreciate the result even more imo.

I still have a few gat milky yellows laying around, didn't buy factory lubed ones on purpose because I wanted to go through it with them again until my Adam kit arrives... or something like that.

Part of me is hating myself for doing that, part of me is looking forward to spending time with my new stuff. I just have to start...

What did they cost?