Recent comments in /f/MechanicalKeyboards

k4zie OP t1_j1zhiyf wrote

Hey there, I did reply to his feedback. And I added a pic as well from my original email exchange with them.

Just to be clear so people don't misinterpret, I'm not accusing them of trying to rip me off. I'm sharing my poor experience of being automatically blamed for damage - it's why I added the pic of the socket that looks soldered but isn't.

As I stated in my reply, I should have taken pics of every socket for imperfections or anomalies so I'm not automatically blamed - which is the issue at hand.

I'm just warning others so they can take extra steps and make sure this doesn't happen to them if they have issues.

Exactly what receipts do you need to satisfy my discussion?

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k4zie OP t1_j1zgu14 wrote

I didn't add pics at first because the intention was not to come here and try and prove them wrong. It was just to share my experience with them and warn others what to do in detail to protect themselves.

I did add a pic below due to the response from them though

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k4zie OP t1_j1zgivt wrote

Reply to comment by hyseung in Novelkeys - Poor Customer Service by k4zie

You're totally right. And the crappy thing is I know it. After you build enough of these, you just get in a routine and don't check every little thing. Time to reset that build process for me!

−6

Omnias-42 t1_j1zgfcx wrote

Reply to comment by k4zie in Novelkeys - Poor Customer Service by k4zie

Do you have receipts to rebut their statements?

When you made your claims, the only party that has provided concrete evidence was the vendor. If you’re going to make serious accusations, you need to be able to back that up.

9

k4zie OP t1_j1zg9dv wrote

Hey, for fairness sake - the issue was not sorted. They replied with their side, which is fair - but assuming that their side is just automatically correct is not. It's a discussion, which is what I was hoping to have.

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k4zie OP t1_j1zfoas wrote

I get why you stand by your decision. It's in your interest, especially here.

The reason for the frustration should be obvious. We were left no choice but to pay you more money for a repair, or be left with something that doesn't work. Exactly how does that sound like you are treating a customer well?

Now, where I'm at fault for sure, is by not taking pics of every socket, zoomed in, for imperfections. Here are two of the back of the PCB since we are showing pictures:

https://preview.redd.it/jup4jxj58p8a1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=94197b5b99235c842ce5edbfa91f7f5a87141767

That end with my poorly drawn arrow, turned out to not be actually attached to the solder. Looks like it is, but turns out it wasn't after inspecting it. Looks just like the rest of them on the back.

Now since you went through the logs, you honestly think it's ok to put the blame on your customer from the first email?

I get it, based on what you see, you are making the claim that Im at fault. I honestly wish I had taken pics of everything just to see if every socket is free of Knicks or imperfections.

For me, how this was handled was just poor. Most other companies would have handled this differently, because frankly, they have. And the fact that despite the people that actually post, a lot may have already gone through this experience.

At the end of the day, you did agree to a full refund, so we can part ways cordially. It's just unfortunate that it was handled so poorly because I honestly thought you guys were a stand up company.

I'm just warning people to be careful, because everything will be scrutinized and I don't want others to have the same experience.

−29

ReaperofFish t1_j1zd9ne wrote

For most PCBs, the controller and resistors are already soldered on. Just plug the PCB into your computer's USB port and got to keyboardtester.com or similar and bridge each set of pins. When you press a switch, the leafs make contact and bridge the connection. So bridging the pin sockets with a metal tweezers is doing the same thing.

2

CtrlAusDel t1_j1zceve wrote

You don’t have to solder anything on a PCB before testing it. Just plug it in and bridge the sockets with tweezers.

Edit: I guess some of the barebones builds that are seen in the community will often need soldering prior to testing (diodes, etc.), but these are not common and the majority of keyboard PCBs can be tested without the need to solder.

5

Suspicious_Student_6 t1_j1zcbu3 wrote

You are in the wrong OP. I am sorry for Novelkeys having to go through this frustrating experience... I have popped a socket myself and based on the photos that they provided (you didn't provide us any photos) it is very clear that you were the one that broke your PCB.

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