Recent comments in /f/MechanicalKeyboards

Okami_no_Lobo t1_iwf26mk wrote

Don't be an apologist, my favorite keyboard was a hand me down from my father with nmb space invader switches, I was devastated when It broke, but kaihl came out with their box switches which have the same double click that I loved about the space invader switches. I am currently working out a way to fix the old one but there is no shame in loving what you love.

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sesame_dukes0j t1_iwf265f wrote

> I am 82% humidity today I guess that is pretty high

Yeah - it's mostly a problem under 40% humidity

Anything over 60% and the air itself becomes quite conductive — enough to release any charge that builds up just by having your skin touch the air. Nearly impossible to generate an ESD over 60%.

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NotSoFull-Info69 t1_iwf0kg5 wrote

An antistatic film is quite the patch instead of a real fix The board processor having ESD protection is definitely not enough from my experience There should atleast be a good number of ESD suppression diodes scattered around the board as well as some sort of grounding which from my knowledge is pretty much missing.

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aleksyandr OP t1_iwexq56 wrote

Means electrostatic discharge. So when static electricity builds up on you and you get a shock when you touch the door handle or a light switch. I've gotten zapped when touching a keyboard in the past but never had this happen where it was damaged.

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WukongDong t1_iwev4q9 wrote

It's a hobby you can either soul search to make the cheapest one possible or the money sink it will become for many. I'm in the middle, I like cheap clicky clocky keebs. The preem stuff would be planned throughout the year for me

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Criticalwater2 t1_iweqf81 wrote

  1. Pull all the switches and completely disassemble the board.
  2. Make sure everything is completely dry.
  3. Test the pcb outside of the case. Also try a new cord in case the cord is damaged.
  4. If it doesn’t work, you can buy a used barebones Alt on eBay for $60-$80 or so. (On Drop a new pcb is $65, but they’re not in stock).
  5. If you reuse the switches, test them as you go—water may have gotten inside some of them, too.
  6. If it all sounds like a lot of work, you can always just get a new board and switches and reuse the stabs and caps. There are some better 65s out there now. Think of it as an opportunity to get something a little more up to date like a Q2 or NK65.
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FinancialTea4 t1_iwen3d3 wrote

I bought an extremely inexpensive model on Amazon. Chinese knock off TKL for $23.00 with hot swappable Outemu blues, double shot PBT with single color LEDs, and it was worth every penny. I don't like to shill on here but if you're interested I'll send you a link. I have another board I bought open box that I really like too but it has one issue which is the LED for the P key flickers but I don't usually use the lights on that one anyway. It kills the battery which lasts a long time with minimal lights enabled. I paid $29.99 for that one directly from the manufacturer. Even with the flickering it was worth every penny. I used a full sized Amazon basics membrane board for work for a couple of years and that thing looks like it's been dragged down a gravel road for a month. I don't think I'll ever go back to membrane boards. It's much more comfortable and satisfying to type on even a cheapo mech.

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pumpkinburger t1_iweh05x wrote

No Judgement here.

I bought a cheap board for $50 because it came with cute keycaps, and I just love it.

I'll upgrade eventually and get fancy, but for now it's a lovely way of getting into the hobby.

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