I just recently preordered a HMKB. I here horrific stories about delivery times. Ho was your experience?

sojuboard

The Keychron Q10 is an Alice-style 75! I was in the same boat, wanting an Alice with function row, and discovered this board a couple of days ago. Looks like it came out about a month and a half ago, but I haven't seen anyone talking about it.

It’s the wuque silicone lube station. I got it from dangkeebs.

It’s not too hard, don’t think about it too much. It will def take you a long time tho haha

Oh ya I remember that too, it had something to do with alexotos and gpbt

They also got in hot water for some keycap color ways if I remember correctly.

That’s only changed as the board became older, it happens with every board becoming outdated. It gets hate because there was pervious controversy over the holy pandas they made and that fueled the fire of the deceiving marketing of the board. That’s it, it was just the marketing that people disliked

Sweet!

I got 105 new Gateron Black Ink V2s and 100 Alpaca V2s that need to be lubed and filmed. Going to be my first time so I'll probably suck at it. Still kind of looking forward to it, though. It'll be prep work for my Luna 80 TKL once it arrives in a few months.

Obligatory Group Buy PSA

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A quick check at Divinikey shows the 7305s are wider. Those may work better. If anything, I’ve always had the opposite problem with the pcb holes being too small.

For mounting, I always have some new cheap switches I put the sockets on and mount a few of the switches at a time to solder the sockets in. That way if I mess up and get solder inside the socket with the pin, I can just throw the switch away.

This was released in China already right? Any news on whether it would come to international vendors?

I don't want to say I'm an expert by any means but I've mill maxed about 9-10 PCB's and 9 of them were new PCB's minus the one which was my personal Space65 R1 PCB that had soldered switches

1. If de soldering switches for sure make sure holes are clean of any residual solder, sometimes if some stays around the PCB switch holes and you cant get the mill max socket in you can try placing the heated solder tip on top of mill max socket and let it heat the residual solder in the pcb. You should feel the socket fall into place.
2. When placing sockets into PCB you can lock them in place with masking tape, I normally place all sockets in one row at a time and then cut some masking tape to the correct width to place on said row to lock them in place. I'd then move down to the next row and do the same, *caution* make sure you have the correct placement for your sockets when doing the last row / steps cap / enter / backspace etc
3. When soldering mill max sockets this has always worked for me in the past. Place the solder tip at the base of the locked socket first for 1-2 seconds before placing the solder up to the base of the socket, I've found this to work for me 100% of the time when soldering 0305 and 7305 sockets.

Looks like MW Demon Girl and MW 02

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The one on the AFA is milkyway demon girl I think?

Name of the two pink keycap sets?

That looks dreamy!

No, they're mapped to [;' and / in this case. ASD are mapped to volume controls and KL are Home and Page Up respectively.

The "native layout" on a real HHKB has the arrows mapped to HJKL.

They may already be mapped on your board, if Drop mimicked that layout precisely.

Budget Friendly (320 USD incl. shipping fee):

Feker Alice80 + Numpad

Gateron Pro Yellow

"Love in Paris" Keycaps and Deskmat

That's a fair point - I haven't run up VIA yet and I do want to give the default/native layout a fair crack first.

I've always viewed programmability as an "in addition to" feature, rather than being "in place of".

For example, I actually have FOUR sets of arrows, on my 1800s.
I map WASD, IJKL and Num8/4/5/6 as layered arrow clusters, in addition to the dedicated arrow keys, to minimize hand movements.

That is a good point.