Oh nice! At least someone understood what I meant by the analogy. I got downvoted to hell on my other comment saying the exact same thing.

Well there is some give and take here. Balanced should probably used any chance people get. 1. While the audible effect is low, the science is accurate, balanced should give you a lower noise floor (even if any particular amp has a pretty low noise floor). 2. The implementation results in more power.

So yeah while I would say that assuming decent design matched between the choices, you aren't really going to be able to tell a difference. I think (without getting into silly snake oil about cabling since you can get balanced relatively cheap) there is a comfort in knowing you are cancelling out on noise along with the increase in power, giving you more confidence in your selection.

Note: I am mentioning because it has a Amp with balanced. I wouldn't suggest someone design their whole audio setup around the idea of going balanced. But a think a cable swap for an IEM (specially going with one with interchangeable connectors) is a value + option.

That's kinda why I don't like them, they have like two strengths and the rest is very meh.

Three blob, very little separation, very narrow and closed sounding, everything kinda smears together and sounds hollow. Mids sound good, timbre is decent, but it lacks on everything else.

It's just far, far too little for me. I can get good mids and timbre with some EQ, I can't really get the rest without absurd measurements that we don't have an a convolution filter.

I've listened to Speakers. The XS sounds big. I'm not into speaker setups, but the XS easily sounds better than my Elac Debut Reference speakers.

There is nothing wrong with preferring the 660S over the others in this lineup. There are some songs where I would still prefer the 660S over the S2. Everything depends on what you like.

The only audio equipment that's broken on me were the Sennheiser Momentum TWS 3 and Sennheiser IE80 IEMs. But I know people are going to say "that's not what Sennheiser is known for".

100% can confirm.

Dan clark open headphones sound closed

I dont like my XS for metal, too analytical sounding

I don’t understand the downvotes on my comment because it is how it feels like and I didn’t mean it in a bad way. As I said in my longer “review” the S2 feels like the most consumer oriented tuning of the whole 600 lineup at least to me and for people who listen to a wide variety of music like me it’s actually better than the others in this lineup. However for instrumental, acoustic, vocal focused very mid heavy songs I would pick the 660S over the S2 although any song with a slight bass will sound enjoyable on the S2 and this is what I meant by saying Sony/Beats tuning.

To me this an obvious value move by Senn. Lets look at the HD660S, It's the same build but with a more expensive driver, using the one from the HD700. Besides being a more expensive driver but after the HD700 got discontinued, and it was still poor seller when it was available, its only the HD660s using it (with the HD800 and its kin using a different driver based on the ideas of the HD700). The $500 it originally sold for made sense. It was more expensive to produce even if a majority of the build was similar. But its still been the poorer seller and now is available at HD600 cost for the most part.

The HD660s2. It's in a family of $200-$300 headphones. It's using a recently reworked version of the typical HD600 family driver. So while there is some R&D to recoup. Its basically a HD600 tuned to be sound like a HD660s, with a bit more bass (compared to the S1).

If it was a full on replacement for the 660s and priced at the current going rate of the 660s or lets say a slight premium like $350. It might be a decent selection. A 660s with more HD600 characteristics (like the veil) and resolution. But at $600, you got 98% of sound with a $200-220 HD6XX, or you get a similar tune but with better resolution out of a $280-$300 HD660s. There is a debate of whether its general quality alone would in theory for a person looking for exactly it would be worth paying $600 for. But as a member of the HD6** family. It is an absolutely poor fit. The 660s has value for being a similar tune with a more proficient driver at half the cost and the rest for being so similar in drivers that the only major difference is tune and them being between half and a third of the cost.

I've been having issues with my mic where its all static-sounding from my headset mic, like whenever I speak it's only static, and there's background noise from the fan under my laptop so it doesn't overheat when gaming when using the built-in mic and idk how to cut that noise out. I'm looking for a decent headset that isn't too expensive and won't pick up too much background noise from my family. If it's possible, under $80 USD would be good since I'm trying to save for a car and college currently, with an income of roughly $100 to $150 per week currently since I work close to minimum wage in my state and can only work weekends due to school. I don't remember what I have currently unfortunately since I ordered them awhile ago. If there's anyway I may be able to fix it for cheaper instead of buying a new pair that would be great. Thank you for any help, and I'm sorry if this is the wrong place to put this.

You’ve got it selected as the audio output device? If you can’t, is anything new showing up in the windows device manager when you plug it in?

>like i hung speakers from my head

great, another one who has never listened to speakers.

You also think the Miata drives like a Honda CBR 1000, only because its a tad bit lighter than your regular car?

A notch at 4k is something that happens, when you fuck up the tuning process.

From what I've gathered if you EQ these they add nothing but price and most reviewers at least prefer HD600/HD660 over these with 660s being a distant fourth.

see you there!

And even then Sony's premium audiophile overears are much less critically acclaimed than their IEMs

Thanks folks! I have some IEMs that use a two prong plug, and think I’ll get a cable with 4.4 mm and try it out.

I have the 650s, the 599SEs, and I just finally bought the 600s - because they went on sale and I wanted to finally hear the differences for myself. To be honest, the 599SEs are damn good for the money. In fact, I did a headphone comparison with a buddy of mine (that's big into hi-fi and home theater but not into headphones at all) where I had him try about 6 pairs of my headphones. In doing direct comparisons between the 650 and 599se, having no idea what they cost, actually preferred the 599s over the 650s. The 650s warm sound takes some time getting used to them to appreciate their sound (in my opinion). For me it took getting a tube amp to sort of rediscover my 650s and appreciate them more. Something to consider.

I haven't done a good comparison to the 600s yet to form a solid opinion, but out of the box I think I like their sound signature better than the 650s too. But all this is very subjective of course. Seems like which one of the 6x0 series you like best is pretty much up to personal preference.

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For the vast majority of headphones, the Mojo 2 will directly power them with plenty of headroom. The Mojo 1 is slightly more powerful and will power all headphones including my Susvara, infamously the hardest to drive headphone.

In fact, an amp can only decrease the fidelity of the chain. Since the Mojo has its own full powered and digitally adjustable output stage, you should indeed just use that directly.

I could see the argument that since the Mojo 2 can’t power a Susvara or HE6 with much headroom, they’d want to put an amp in the chain in case someone walks in with one of these but still…

Billie Eilish has some crazy production on a lot of her tracks, man. Granted the song OP listened to isn't the best representation of that, but let's not pretend it's all dog shit here.

> so what chance do individuals have at providing evidence any kind of evidence you would accept? What would that even look like?

As I have often pointed out, proving it is actually fairly easy and pain-free. People who are willing to give up maybe ten minutes of their time and a little effort can use free software tools such as Foobar2000's excellent ABX comparator plugin (installation and usage instructions here) to conduct their own test using their own lossless source files on own their own setup.

The log that results from the test can be saved as .txt and can be verified using Foobar's ABX signature checker to confirm that the results are legitimate. It's not perfect, but it goes a long way to showing that people can actually hear what they claim to hear.

Plus, even more importantly that the result itself, the process of blind testing actually shows to people how small the difference actually is when they don't know which is which and how little it generally matters in the grand scheme of things.

I have the XS, 600 and 650. XS are totally different - I wouldn't even compare them. I like both. The XS sound like I hung speakers from my head. Don't have anything else that sound like that. Very comfortable and easy to listen to all day. I was very curious about the Hifiman sound/lineup. Was super happy they released the XS, which by all accounts sound nearly as good (and some say better) than their more expensive counterparts.