Recent comments in /f/headphones

Toadno t1_jd81568 wrote

HeadAmp Gilmore Lite Mk2 would be an interesting pairing with the Mojo. Another option would be the JDS Labs EL Amp II+ which you can get the Boosted edition with a bit more power.

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ocic t1_jd7xdxd wrote

Reply to comment by NormalAccounts in IEM gangbang by Jmo04

Thanks for replying. Glad to hear your general perspective on the A12t. Is the MX module worth the extra money? I really dislike how expensive their modules are... it feels like they should all be included at the price 64 Audio is charging.

My plan was to run the M15 or M20, likely for the bass, but I also enjoy a bit of balance.

For reference, one of my favorite systems is a pair of 8351b with their matched subs. I do have the treble turned down a hair and the bass turned up a notch, though. Very neutral, but very engaging studio monitors.

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ultra_prescriptivist t1_jd7x956 wrote

Good write-up, especially for people like me who know relatively little about Bluetooth codecs as a whole.

I do have a query about the section on AAC, though:

>The compression algorithm of psychoacoustics of AAC is similar to MP3, and it cuts out a lot of data, but which the algorithm assumes you won’t hear. For the average listener, the compression is easily audible, with a decent pair of headphones.

Is the Bluetooth AAC codec somehow different and less efficient than the lossy compression AAC codec? Because, if not, this is a serious case of "citation needed".

Apple's lossy AAC encoder is extremely good, and blind tests have shown that the vast majority of people cannot tell between high bitrate AAC and lossless (Source 1 | Source 2) and may even be challenging to discern at bitrates as low as 128kbps.

How were your assessments of which codec sounds better made, exactly? Did you conduct any controlled testing, or were you just basing them on the assumption that high bitrate = sounds better?

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Juicy_Oranges t1_jd7k7fr wrote

The left headphone driver is probably dead then and repairing it would either be insanely difficult or impossible. I repaired a lot of Dt770s and 990s in the last years und while they are very repair-friendly, this case sounds like it's done.

Was it described as defective? If it arrived the way it is, you might be able to return it, but I obviously don't know where and under what circumstances you bought it.

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headphones-ModTeam t1_jd7dpru wrote

This post has been removed. Please note the following rule:

>Rule 2: Ask purchase help questions in the Shopping and Setup Help Desk found at https://reddit.com/r/headphones/about/sticky > >Requests for product opinions, comparisons, and general purchase advice must be made in the dedicated Shopping and Setup Help Desk found at /r/headphones/about/sticky instead of a new post.

You may also use r/headphoneadvice but please search their resources and familiarize yourself with their rules first before posting.

What questions are considered purchase advice?

  • A request for product suggestions, comparison requests, or opinion requests fall under the purchase advice rule. These can often be found by searching first.

  • Any suggestion or comparison request pertaining to headphones, IEMs, DACs, amps, or other accessories should be directed to the purchase help thread or r/headphoneadvice.

  • Asking the subreddit to help make a decision to buy a product does fall under this rule (e.g. "should I get dekoni pads for my HD650?").

Why does this rule even exist?

What if the link doesn't work?

  • The post can usually be found on the top r/headphones, and titled Shopping, Setup, and Technical Help Desk.
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ConsciousNoise5690 t1_jd7ad80 wrote

Its a matter of headroom.

The loudest you can play at the digital side is called 0 dBFS. If you exceed this level, you get digital clipping.

Often recordings do have sufficient headroom e.g. 10 dB so you can boost without hitting 0 dBFS. However, there are also recordings with very little or no headroom. This is typical for the loudness war. Even the slightest boost will result in distortion (digital clipping).

As already mentioned by others, a simple strategy is not boosting but lowering. If you want to emphasize 400-2400, leave them at 0 and lower the rest.

Another solution is simply not using the Spotify EQ or the EQ of any other app as you have to tailor each app. Just go system wide. https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/eq-software-for-windows-linux-macos-ios-ipados-and-android.18450/

If it comes with a pre-amp, you can boost to your harts content and simply use the pre-amp to compensate for the highest boost. In case of Win you can also avoid distortion caused by resampling signals close to 0 dBFS.

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TagalogON t1_jd772sw wrote

Click this sentence for IEMs/TWS earbuds and headphones with PC gaming, squig.link, AutoEQ, parametric EQ.

Click this sentence for using squig.link, parametric EQ, etc. to gauge future purchases.


Look into squig.link and use the AutoEQ feature there, you can compare graphs, easily parametric EQ to a specific target, etc.

Here's Super* Review using the new AutoEQ feature of his squig.link site: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWzBw3XBn8c&t=332s

Or actually here's Timmy from Gizaudio explaining it too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gpQalW_bjLQ

Check /r/oratory1990 for the preset parametric EQ list (mainly for headphones but there's some IEMs there): https://www.reddit.com/r/oratory1990/wiki/index/list_of_presets

You can do (parametric) EQ with $8 Neutron Music Player or UAPP on Android. If on PC, the free (Peace) Equalizer APO. There are free apps on Android(/Apple) that can also do a good enough job, but most of them have those graphics sliders instead of parametric or just plug the numbers in EQ. EQ can also be used to help with channel or ear imbalances.

There's also the free Wavelet app that has the AutoEQ available now. And other free apps for more simple graphic sliders EQ, etc.

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