Damn, that sucks, that’s really horrible.

Those connectors are the one badly built thing about the 800S in my opinion, they really should’ve gone with some standard connector. I’ll never unplug the cable from mine again.

Have you tried taking out your Hart cable? Not able to get mine out as easily as the stock ones

Yikes!!! I had such a hard time when taking mine off as well and would always be scared that this would happen. I decided to get the Hart modular cables so I don’t have to take them off again

Unfortunately, I haven’t heard of a proper parametric EQ for iOS

I am sorry 🙁

Good point, will update the article to include that bit of information

aptX HD is theoretically the best sounding to date, while being the most stable. The idea that LDAC sounds better applies only when there is no network congestion.

LHDC can be a bit superior but it is not widely supported at the moment.

Yes, I also review cables. And as for Mp3, if you feel it is the same and if your ears tlel you that they sound the same, better for you, you can save some money.

Got into higher end headphones. Speed ran my way from a pc38x, then a 6xx drop reservation, then to a 560s since it’d take too long, followed by a 660s, then lastly a used 800s. I wanted a nice new pair for the final winner, so I bought a second fresh 800s. I think I got a solid 10 minutes with these.

Edit: Resurrected! Does anyone know what gauge those exposed wires are? My calipers say I need 30 gauge wire for a complete fix since tiny silicone sleeve came off one.

Bonus: I understand warranty or return but I’d just like to make it clear it’s really not that serious. You remove the pads, unscrew two screws, pop out the magic sound maker, and tap tap with the soldering iron. Now that know what I’m looking at I could probably fix this in a minute since I cheat with an electric screwdriver. The worst part was waiting for my iron to heat up and that takes a whole 20s. There was no real chance anything bad would happen… to the headphones. I could’ve burned myself.

Overall a great confidence boost in my diy abilities like unscrewing screws… or holding a wire with tweezers. Thank you all. Imma gonna go make a microwave more powerful or something now.

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Your fine as is! I only got the MX a few years later. You can get third party modules from Fir audio as well that are cheaper and do something similar, but especially with your preference, the m15 and m20 will be fine

>To change the bluetooth settings on an Android smartphone, you typically go to System -> Developer Options -> Bluetooth Audio Codec -> select your pick.

You're missing a step here as Developer Options is disabled by default. This varies by phone, but normally you can enable it by going to System --> About Phone --> Software Info and repeatedly pressing Build Number (about 7 times). On Xiaomi, it's in About Phone and pressing MIUI version. On Samsung, it's in Software Info, etc. Do note you can only select codec that is supported by the paired device as the non-supported ones are greyed-out.

the thinnest pads i have ever seen

I tested it, and Spotify's EQ causes comically bad clipping at max level.

Sometimes stock/original cables are just way too staticky and so if you replace them it will get reduced/removed. Usually using a dongle even with those staticky IEMs will do the job though.

Again better if a dongle with physical volume control as you just click to the lowest volumes with the physical buttons and adjust on the Windows volume slider or phone app/volume slider instead.

Is a fixed cable an indicator of sensitivity? What am I missing?

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Aye, pretty much.

Welp... Then you're stuck with the shitty Spotify EQ unless you wanna make the commitment to get the Qudelix 5K Receiver. It has an accompanying app that allows parametric EQ. This means more fine and targeted changes than vague large sweeps like what happens with the Spotify EQ... It's a buy once forget all time fix and it's a little nifty and portable device.

So in spotify itself, I should create the same EQ curve by actually redcing the sliders and not increasing them? That sounds like it'll work well

Iphone 14 plus

What you should do to not cause distortion is, think which frequencies you want to boost, and instead lower all the other a bit. The effect of the same, but the overall volume decreases.

Fair enough, I suppose that makes sense. I can see how the real-time transcoding issue could account for a more noticeable degradation than locally stored lossy files.

I don't really do Bluetooth audio, so I often fail to appreciate that it really is quite a different ballgame.

For Android users, what would you say is the best codec to use for a good balance between performance and reliability? LDAC or one of the aptX variants?

AAC codec and AAC bluetooth are two separate things from what I can gather. In fact, AAC bluetooth sound is extremely different between iPhones and Android phones, as I pointed out there.

The sonic is based on double blind testing, but it is tightly connected to the available bandwidth, and this is because Bluetooth compression is something that has to happen real time and has to be a low power process, the nature of how it is designed means that it is less efficient than MP3 and AAC file encoding. We also have to take into account that the files are most likely already lossy in nature, so the quality of anything transmitted over Bluetooth is always lower than what was stored in the computer.

yeah but if there is any option to repair it would be good