This

I'm not even sure about the "almost" part, if you're not applying EQ or other kinds of DSP to the sound.

Look into AptX Adaptive USB transmitter dongles (like KB9P), they're often ~$15-20 on AliExpress/Amazon/etc.

In theory you can use those USB transmitter dongles to output AptX Adaptive with any device that has USB. So use USB-C or USB-A adapters/converters if needed. Btw, it seems you have to get the 16-bit version for compatibility with older devices like say TV, otherwise go for the 24-bit version as those are often newer and have bugfixes and so on. They're like the same price, so just get the 24-bit versions of the AptX Adaptive dongles.

For the KB8P and KB9P there's also the Dongle Assistant software, a few people have translated it to English, check the Head-Fi thread linked below.

There's ~$20 AptX Adaptive USB transmitter dongles like the KB9P. It'll go well with AptX Adaptive receivers/devices like Qudelix 5K and FiiO UTWS5. And of course TWS earbuds that have AptX Adaptive.

Here's more (direct) updated info about the AptX Adaptive USB transmitter dongles (KB8P, KB9P, YET-T10P): https://www.reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/zfkxgf/can_i_use_a_bluetooth_transmitter_to_bypass_s22/izcyrvn/ and https://www.reddit.com/r/HeadphoneAdvice/comments/x49xwl/bluetooth_52_aptx_adaptive_latency_with/imune2x/ and https://www.reddit.com/r/HeadphoneAdvice/comments/s54lbx/wireless_closed_backs_for_general_pc_use/imqv9px/

Here's more updated info about the AptX Adaptive USB transmitter dongles (KB8P, KB9P, YET-T10P): https://www.reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/zfkxgf/can_i_use_a_bluetooth_transmitter_to_bypass_s22/izcyrvn/

This thread link talks about the Qudelix 5K, AptX Adaptive dongles, and specifically Apple devices: https://www.reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/zc1znn/qudelix_5k_arent_these_issues_a_big_issue/iyuh35j/

This is the Head-Fi thread for those AptX Adaptive/Lossless dongles and other Bluetooth transmission stuff: https://www.head-fi.org/threads/aptx-adaptive-aptx-lossless-usb-transmitters.961856/page-52

If you want Bluetooth or TWS earbuds for PC/et cetera, here's also more direct info: https://www.reddit.com/r/HeadphoneAdvice/comments/z74tif/wireless_earphones_for_pc_microsoft_teams/iy59w0n/

Hopefully we get QCC5171 TWS earbuds and TWS adapters soon as there's now QCC5171 neckband adapters with AptX Lossless and so on. And like hopefully Bluetooth 5.3 LC3/AptX Lossless/etc. USB transmitter dongles soon too.

Newer Bluetooth 5.3/etc. dongles will come out from Taobao/China, IIRC they're also maybe developing LDAC (maybe LHDC too, it's like an LDAC equivalent (LHDC has an additional low latency version), usually only found on Xiaomi devices) USB transmitter dongles. So that should come out after or like the same time. It depends on how the Qualcomm/etc. chipsets go when they implement/hack it together.

Anyway, for the storage, 128GB and 256GB microSD cards (SDXC/etc.) should be like pretty cheap, less than $50 these days. Latest phones should have OTG cable/etc. stuff already but if you're using older phones for storage, don't forget to get a legit OTG cable or cable that allows proper data transfer.

Like if your phone has no microSD card, you'll have to use external storage or the cloud storage and so on.

I have basically everything in FLAC and then the few other files are 320kbps MP3 files. Or if it's from ASMR (Here's some videos/channels for ASMR triggers: https://www.reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/xqq9kw/can_a_normal_person_hear_binaural_sound_when/iqcayk9/) then it's sadly from Youtube compression already, though back then and even these days some ASMRtists will give away their source or FLAC files for free/cheap on Bandcamp and so on.

So having everything in FLAC is for the peace of mind. If you're storage-constrained, go for 320kbps MP3 or 256 kbps MP3, that's constant bitrate (CBR) not variable bitrate (VBR) btw, but you can also do VBR since some people don't mind. Or ya opus since some people like that format.

Don't worry too much about bitrate loss and so on as everything is still lossy/compressed/etc. even with the new AptX Lossless from Bluetooth 5.3/LC3/etc. that won't be enough for really picky people that like to look at things on paper, lol. Like in practice most people won't be able to notice, especially since they use TWS earbuds/adapters/receivers/etc. outside.

When you're outside, a lot of external noises are competing with the music/sound from the TWS earbuds. Especially since some people don't try to go for that good/perfect fit for that vacuum seal (necessary for bass to be heard properly). And so without that vacuum seal (especially with stem style TWS earbuds, like AirPods, as those have little to no ear tips), there's way less noise reduction/isolation.

With Apple TWS earbuds or Bluetooth devices, those have hardware/software/etc. that make them sound good (through AAC) when paired with iPhones or other Apple devices that have a particular chip, like the new H2 chip or something like that.

So with Android you'll have access to LDAC, LHDC (this is basically only for Xiaomi phones), AptX Adaptive, and now AptX Lossless (few phones have it, like Motorola, ASUS, etc. have like one or two models so far, it's not mainstream yet). Those Bluetooth codecs have better sound quality than AAC in theory (though again Apple does special things though with their proprietary chips if both your TWS earbuds and phones are from Apple) and so ya.

You can do (parametric) EQ with $8 Neutron Music Player or UAPP on Android. If on PC, the free (Peace) Equalizer APO. There are free apps on Android(/Apple) that can also do a good enough job, but most of them have those graphics sliders instead of parametric or just plug the numbers in EQ. EQ can also be used to help with channel or ear imbalances.

Neutron and UAPP are the usual audiophile apps. Some people use the free/etc. options like Wavelet, which also has AutoEQ.

If you like a particular sound, try looking into squig.link graphs for comparisons and so on. You can try using the AutoEQ there to make IEMs/headphones sound like the others, just keep in mind that obviously it's not going to be the exact same sound.

Here's Super* Review using the new AutoEQ feature of his squig.link site: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWzBw3XBn8c&t=332s

Use any EQ list or AutoEQ from squig.link as a base for your preferred taste. So like adjust the treble/bass/etc. areas if the Harman/crinacle/etc. target is still too much for you.

TL;DR: get the $20 KB9P AptX Adaptive USB transmitter dongle, some microSD cards or external/could storage, and then call it a day with any file/audio format you want as in practice most people won't be able to tell the difference when outside/etc.

According to tests - yes. Practically, assuming we work with relatively high bitrates, - I don't think it matters so much.

Sure .. but presumably AAC > AAC would be less prone to audible degradation, right?

You can also have some great experience with Musepack (sounds amazing, no generation loss because it's subband), but the problem is general compatibility - I refused it because I couldn't transfer it to my smart watch and to friends through messengers. Shame, because it's my favourite free open source format, I like it even more than Opus for my tasks.

To my experience AAC FDK VBR 5 is good. Bitrate is something like 200-210 kbps. Sound is generally transparent to me.

Any codec is transcoded to AAC, including AAC itself. The question is if you can hear generation loss or not.

I transcode all my Flac to 192 ogg for my offline listening. Have been doing it this way for the past 20 years and my ears are happy.

I have several MMCX and 2 pin IEMs. I've never had one fail on me. I've had one MMCX that cut out occasionally but I was able to replace the cable and that seemed to fix it

I think the biggest risk is connectors loosening over time, but if you don't disconnect them often I think they'll last a long time.

But Opus would be transcoded to AAC via Bluetooth, right? Couldn't that affect the audio quality?

Personally, if you are looking for a combination of the two in the relative price range of the Edition XS, then I would recommend the Hifiman Sundara or AudioTechnica ATH-R70X. The R70X has insanely good imaging for its price and the soundstage is… decent, not as wide as the Sundara, but not narrow like an HD6x0 headphone. The Sundara is basically just good at both but not great at either.

It’s very hard to find headphones that do everything great. That’s why the ones that do cost a lot of money.

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Hmm.. did not know that, I might do that - thanks!

AAC to AAC is almost 100% resistant to generational loss, so use FDK, mode VBR 5. Opus is compressed better, but it's up to you.

I really don't think it's going to matter that much.

I personally have done the same thing and most of mine are flacs converted to 320 kbps mp3. I've done some opus lately. I can't tell the difference.

I have a Samsung phone soni get a better codec, but it's fine.

I'd probably not go any lower than around 256 kbps personally. If you couldn't tell a difference with Spotify settings you probably won't here either.

Don't stress. Just enjoy. You can always change it later if you think you need to.

Depends what im playing. For MMOS i usually throw on my DT770 or Meze 99. When i want wider soundstage its usually for action/cinematic games and i use my HD650 or hifiman he400se for that nice freq response.

I feel the same way. Used the 560s for a while and loved them sometimes and other times the songs were just unlistenable. I was constantly going from WOW, to OUCH from song to song. Then I got the HD 660s and it doesn't matter what song I throw at them, they all sound amazing. Smooth and soothing.

For gaming, you don't migrate to anything from the HD 560s. They're insanely good at directional imaging.

I use Beyerdynamic Tygr 300r for gaming and some EDM I play Overwatch 2 and I feel like I'm cheating on how wide and precise this hp is 😂

the biggest issue with 0.78 2 pin connectors is it becoming loose and you losing one side of the iem

This is not helped by fake 0.78 pins that widen the connectors.

t2 ftw

strength wise there is nothign to worry about

I just referred to reviews and peoples overall opinion on these. Point is they are more recommended than other headphones on 500 dollar class. Rarely bad word about them and they are compared to 2-3 times expensive headphones. Maybe if you have thousands to spend Hifiman is not the best choice but at that price point they seem best you can buy.

They are clear upgrade from hd 600 series OP was wanting to upgrade from. K712 does not seem as good upgrade and K812 is crazy expensive, just like hd800. Hifiman XS seems good middle ground

New fear unlocked.

Another question for anyone who knows: is the socket the pins go into usually part of the plastic shell, or is it a separate component that can come loose?

I understand your excitement for your upcoming headphones, but before speaking C so demonstrably with such assumed authority next time, limit such passionate comments to headphones you have heard in person, over a wide variety of genres and volumes

The Xs will be a very significant upgrade over your M50x, which while decent in the midrange and lower treble, has badly bloated muddy bass

Had the same experience with a pair of ATH-AD900X. Sounded like footsteps were twice as far away. Settled on a pair of Phillips SHP9500 for gaming. Considering they only cost $60-80, it's great value for the image detail they provide