Recent comments in /f/massachusetts

SeaworthinessLeft88 t1_j5l9xyr wrote

Dude, $1000/month is insane.

I have an induction range, electric dryer, an EV, and a heat pump system that was installed in 2016 that has been heating my 2000 sq ft house all winter. December and January’s bills were ~$370. I do have solar, but those panels really don’t produce a lot in the winter. I think I had slightly under 400 kWhrs for my 6kW system for December. I have an oil boiler also for hot water that I’ve been forgoing for heat this year due to oil prices.

I would target your insulation and windows first and foremost, assuming your costs are coming from heating primarily, and you’re not running crypto mining rigs or grow lamps 24/7. If you have bad insulation/windows, you’re literally just burning away your money as heat leaks out of your house. If it’s an old house with old windows, there might not be any insulation in the walls at all, and single-pane windows are very drafty and inefficient.

A heat pump upgrade might be next on the list. I’d really question that estimate. Mine was $16k (ductless mini split, 4 zones) when it was installed in ‘16.

I’m kind of thinking you might have municipal power since you’re not eligible for MassSave. If that’s the case, you might be out of luck with switching suppliers (I’m not sure how muni electricity works). If you can switch suppliers, that’s something that you can do right now to potentially reduce your electricity bill by a large amount. If your town has a community aggregate supplier, you definitely want to sign up for that.

I would put solar at the bottom of the list. Solar’s great; I have a 6 kW system myself. But what you produce in the winter is not going to come close to substantial offsetting a bill like that. For $1000, I would guess that your consumption is around 2-3 MWhrs or more. Like I said, my 6 kW system produces a measly 300-500 kWhrs during winter months.

Finally, with bills like that, it might even warrant a call to your electric company to see what’s going on, and to make sure that you don’t have a faulty meter or are a victim of electricity theft. You could flip off your breaker and observe the meter. If it’s still moving with the master breaker off, something shady is going on.

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Zolor23 t1_j5l718o wrote

I’m just going to chime in and make sure you’re getting one under the price cap. From what I understand, the 5-seater version is not considered an SUV by the IRS, so the price cap is $55,000 which means the Performance model does not qualify and watch out if you’re adding options to the LR to not go over $55k.

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SeaworthinessLeft88 t1_j5l6wq1 wrote

It really depends. I’m fortunate to have a community aggregate program, and after doing the actual math, oil needs to be below $3/gal for it to be cheaper than running the heat pump on my current electricity rates. Right now, it’s going for roughly $4/gal, so it’s not even close.

My heat pump isn’t new, but it’s not old either (installed in 2016). It’s a power hog under ~20F, but I think it’s still cheaper than burning oil at these rates.

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techorules t1_j5l3wyu wrote

Cool. Yeah my electricity is way below those figures..... Also propane averages in Mass are way way higher than $2.5. My last delivery (which I am hoping I literally my last ever) was over $4. And with climate change sadly -15F is pretty rare indeed.

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langjie t1_j5l14ap wrote

3412 btu/kwh x 1.7 COP = 5,800 btus.

oil at $4 /gal: 138,700 btus * 80% boiler efficiency = 110,960 btu's (19.1 kwh of heat pump). electricity needs to be at 21 cents/kwh to be equal to $4 oil if outside is @ -15°F

propane at $2.5 /gal: 91,700 btus * 80% boiler efficiency = 73,360 btu's (12.6 kwh of heat pump). electricity needs to be at 20 cents /kwh to be equal to $2.50 propane if outside is -15°F

all depends on the rate but also it's typically not that cold out so the math changes with increased efficiency

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