Between 5% and 6% for HYSAs within 6 month?

Unlikely.

For longer term CDs?

Maybe, but that still seems like a reach.

Just my opinions though, and no one has a crystal ball.

Not at all.

You don’t have a loss until you sell, and even then, losses are as compared to what you bought it for, not YTD.

Let me rephrase. It covers the homeowner. Property, liability, etc. Damage to others’ person and property is covered because the homeowner is liable for it.

I’d compare it to car insurance. Sure. It covers the property of the person whose car you damaged. To prevent you and your insurance company from getting sued. It still doesn’t make it the other party’s coverage.

It covers your liability for slips and falls when someone gets hurt and sues you. The coverage is protecting the homeowner from the person that slipped and fell, not the person who slipped and fell.

Doubtful, as the probably looks like a “return”, not you making a payment. If so, it’s like it never happened.

ACH is fine. Wire is just if you’re in a hurry.

Not sure if it matters, but I always initiate the transfer from the receiving account. One, you can’t screw up where it’s going. Two, for interest purposes, I notice it shows the full amount in the account right away, even if it’s not “available” for 5 days. Not sure if interest accrues from the transfer date or available date, but either way, I like seeing that it’s there.

Pull funds, don’t push them.

Your policy covers the stuff in the house, up to your policy’s limits for personal effects.

It provides no coverage for her personally, if you mean life, liability, health, or something like that. Her parent’s homeowners insurance doesn’t either.

Homeowners covers the house and the stuff in it, up to policy limits. It doesn’t all have to be your stuff.

It will help (you have zero chance without one), but at your income, still might not be enough.

What you had was a deferred interest loan. No interest only if the balance is paid in full by the specified date, otherwise all the interest starting from Day 1 comes roaring back.

They’re pretty common. Always read the fine print, especially when someone is telling you “no interest”.

You’re really asking if something that costs a dollar or two a month is worth it? That’s like asking if buying a bag of chips at the convenience store once a month is worth it.

What it’s not worth is even thinking about. He should just sign up for a few bucks worth and forget about it until his life situation changes (at which point he should get more).

Of course she should file. Worse that happens is denial. In other words, same thing that happens if she doesn’t file.

If you’re not taking out new credit, freeze your credit. Do that whether you leave these open or closed. A credit freeze won’t stop someone from hacking and fraudulently using the ones you already have, but there’s fraud protections for that.

You do need a credit card for those things, car rental in particular. Many won’t rent without one, debit cards not good enough.

While you may not care about your credit score now, you may later if you want to buy a house or other major purchase.

Just throw them in the back of a drawer.

150 Dinars is $212 USD at today’s rates.

Possible the rate was a little worse then, throw in a crappy exchange rate with a credit card, maybe some foreign transaction fees, maybe a 10% service charge, something close to $300 USD is plausible. But yeah, even those things wouldn’t account for $390.

If there is any match, hell yeah. At least the minimum to get the full match.

If no match, I’d probably throw in a few percent just to establish the habit, but wouldn’t go crazy.

What is “massively overcharged”? Is it even credible as a meal charge? Could it be a currency issue (bill was in pounds, etc).

That’s the top of the phase out I think where it ends completely. The start is lower than that I believe.

Regarding the credit, I think you’re in the phase out range for the credit, but don’t worry about it. It’s not like you’re going to give the child back or do anything differently, it is what it is, your tax software will figure it out when the time comes.

Dealership is offering $14K for a car that isn’t even running right and may need a new transmission?

Ditch it fast before they change their mind and get something more reliable.

Yup, you get each rate for six months. You got the 7.12% for six months, you get the 9.62% for six months, then you’ll get the soon to be announced rate (likely 7.48%) for six months.

No need to buy more to get the new rate, unless you want more.

You go into TreasuryDirect, you make a gift purchase for someone else. There is no limit on the amount you can buy as gifts, only a limit on what an individual can get in a calendar year, either from purchasing it themselves or receiving as a gift.

So for example, a married couple can each buy their own $10K for 2022, then buy another $10K now as a gift to deliver in 2023, or even another $10K to deliver in 2024. Buying now for 2024 only adds three months to the lock up period, as the 1 year doesn’t run out til October 2023 anyway.

It’s not hard to do, you just register it in their name and check the “this is a gift” box when you buy it.

TreasuryDirect explains it:

https://www.treasurydirect.gov/savings-bonds/gift-a-bond/

If you are married or have a trusted partner to gift with, you can buy future year’s maximum. For example, if you’ve already maxed 2022, you can buy another $10K for your partner as a “gift” to deliver in January 2023. Starts the six months of high interest now, and doesn’t even lock anything up for longer, because ineligible for redemption until October 2023 anyway.

And if you’re willing to lock up the money an extra three months to January 2024….you can buy a third $10K (x2, with partner) now too.

And still only Wednesday. Imagine Thursday and Friday….

Correct