Your taxes are your taxes. If you have too much being withheld, you’ll get a refund. If she’s having too little withheld, she’ll have to pay more.

Different jurisdictions have different state and local taxes as well. Places like California and NYC are known for high state and local income taxes. Places like Florida and Texas are known for no state and local income taxes at all.

Deductions for things like health insurance can differ significantly as well, depending on quality of your plan and how much of it your employer is covering.

Read your loan terms. While it might have a prepayment penalty, those tend to be pretty rare in the US.

Regardless, just call your lender and ask for a payoff amount. They’ll quote you how much that is, including accrued interest as of that day. Then pay that amount.

Forget about the life insurance paperwork for a minute. Take some time to grieve, prepare for a service, or anything else that is more immediate. Even just getting a death certificate takes a few weeks, and life insurance isn’t going to do anything without that. Call them next week.

Last year 1.5% and 1.8% was good. It obviously isn’t now. That’s the chance you take.

You can generally terminate early if willing to forfeit a few months interest. Figure out what the cancellation penalty is and if cancelling makes sense.

It’d probably be okay, although I think I’d leave your employment address at your brother’s for now. Mail doing that shouldn’t be more than one W-2 a year, if that (many deliver electronically now).

Target date funds are a “basket” of a funds designed for your age. You would want a 2040 fund. At your age, most experts would recommend about 50% in US stocks, 35% to 40% in world stocks and 10% to 15% in bonds.

A 2040 fund will be made up of about three to five mutual funds at those percentages. As you age, the percentages of each will adjust with you.

The Vanguard 2040 fund would be my recommendation for you. Because it’s already three to five funds, it’s all you need.

If you haven’t “seen” many HYSAs lately, then you haven’t been looking. That’s where it belongs. Quick and easy to open one from a highly rated company on this list:

https://www.nerdwallet.com/best/banking/high-yield-online-savings-accounts

Nice! I’ll have to update mine as well.

You can/should use household income to open and fund your IRA. Your spouse’s income counts.

You can’t pay off debt without money. If you’re at the point where you’re never going to be able to climb out of it, it may be time to consult a bankruptcy attorney, but bankruptcy isn’t a decision to make lightly.

Wait, you can easily change bank accounts on TreasuryDirect now?

Whenever it’s issued is what year it counts. It normally takes a day or two. You can log back into TreasuryDirect and check. If it says 12/01/2022, it’s a 2022 purchase. 01/01/2023, it’s a 2023 purchase.

Anything initiated today will almost certainly be a 2023 purchase.

If you went over, you’ll have to remove excess contributions before you file taxes. Not that big a deal, just let your new administrator know that you’re over, they’ll fix.

Assuming you have only one employer and one 401K, they’ll cut it off. Do 22%, the last contribution will be reduced to max out.

I mean the reason the price is going up (or that it was lowered for now) is probably because of the tax credit (and current lack thereof). So it sounds like it could be about the same either way, which was probably Chevy’s point.

At some point, maybe switch over to a target date fund and let them pick the percentage for you. But yes, if you do that in your mid 30s, expect the bond percentage to initially be around 10%, increasing as you get older.

The S&P 500 fund holds the largest 500 companies in the US. The total world fund holds 9,534 stocks from all market capitalizations and all market sectors across the world.

OP isn’t in two baskets. They are in approximately 10,000 baskets worldwide (okay, a bit less if you want to subtract the overlap).

It is literally impossible to diversify further within stocks. If you mean adding things like bonds, treasuries, etc, then okay.

You can ask for a fee waiver, but there’s nothing really to dispute. They have a fee for cashing a bad check. They charged you that fee.

Since you’re a good customer, possible they waive it, but if they say no, it is what it is. Nothing to dispute.

That’s fine. At some point as you get older, you’ll want to diversify beyond 100% stocks, but okay at 28.

You’re missing some nuance and your math is off, but yes (kind of).

First, don’t confuse penalty free with tax free. If you withdraw $10K from a Traditional IRA for a first time home purchase, while you don’t have to pay the 10% penalty you normally would, you do have to pay income taxes on the whole thing. So you wouldn’t actually net $10K.

Your math is also off. To figure out how big of home $10K supports if that’s a 3.5% down payment, divide $10K by 0.035. The answer is $285K, not $350K. 3.5% of $350K is $12.250.

There are closing and ownership costs too. Maintenance, property taxes, home insurance, etc.

Finally, houses don’t always go up. In fact, many people are currently worried about home values going down. Leverage is great if you can use the bank’s money to make money, but not so great if you lose money. You still owe the bank their money even if your home loses value. Historically, home prices have risen a bit faster than inflation over the long term, but not as much as stocks and financial investments. So the money you’re taking from the IRA probably would have been earning more where it was.

So there’s a grain of truth to your thinking… but not nearly as favorable as you think.

I think you turn $1 billion into $1 in less than 10 years…..

You’re asking if trying to time the market is a good idea. Even professionals routinely fail at this. The answer is a resounding “no”.

Also be mindful about quoting “average” returns. Read this, and pay particular attention to the graphic.

https://www.morningstar.in/posts/48522/the-flaw-of-averages.aspx

Doesn’t have to be a whole room. It can be part of a room. But whatever it is, the use has to be exclusive.

The space where you work has to be used exclusively for your business, but if so, yes. This explains it:

https://www.keepertax.com/posts/rent-as-a-tax-deduction

Agree. Range is what they want to pay though, not what you need, which could be more, less or the same. Many states require the range be disclosed upon request. I do that before I ever schedule an interview though, to know if it’s even something I want to interview for. I don’t consider that “the interview” though, hence the comment.