Budget? There are some amazing cabins after Ashford, but just before you enter the park. Can recommend Stormking Cabins & Spa

And as usual it’s often not the weather that’s the problem. For that we slow down and do quite fine. It’s all the other drivers that totally lack any sense while out in the white. Big SUV (I have one) or truck does not equal hood traction on the white. Quite the opposite. A light and nimble car always have better traction (grip to stay on the road). But drivers feel invincible in large 4x4 vehicles. And hence those are often the first in the ditch.

Serafina off Eastlake Av.

Draining the bottom to empty eventual accumulation of sludge on an annual basis - and replacing the sacrificial anode (that is supposed to corrode, not your tank) as needed. "As needed' depends on your water. Can be anything from every two years to once every ten years.

The sacrificial anode is $15-$20 in most cases and relatively easy to inspect and to replace. In my case even with limited headroom above the tank, managed to pull out the old - not badly corroded one - and insert a new one. No need to empty tank, just drain it a tiny bit to ensure water does not leak out the top when anode is removed.

Still, I think that is a task that 99.99% of users never undertake, as we are taught that hot water tanks are 'install and forget' and only 'should' last 5-10 years.

I do inspect burner if via the opening, try to ensure no dust has accumulated underneath (have pets, dust occurs on basement floor). I try to keep tank clean and dust free on the outside, make sure flue and vent hood are properly connected and in good shape, etc. Same goes for the china cap and B-vent exposed to the outside elements.

I’m on year 21 and expect to get an additional ten years. All about preventative maintenance.

You should not drain the tank if restarting the pilot light. In fact, you should NEVER lit anything with a drained tank. That said, have you tried draining out the sediment that accumulates at the bottom of the tank (more if tank if starting to rust)? I drain the sediment out of my tank about once every two years. Essentially nothing. I also replace the sacrificial anode at intervals.

I’ve had mine up for 21 years, basking in sunlight every afternoon. White, not painted. No issues.

As many others have said, air quality (and the AQI) vary much locally. Some of us are in protected 'valleys'. Others are in valleys so 'protected' they fill with smoke quickly.

Just heard some 2,900 homes are under a Go Now evacuation order…

www.kgw.com/video/news/local/wildfire/nakia-creek-fire-has-grown-to-2000-acres-prompts-evacuation-orders/283-bd7b039f-2225-41b5-8948-ff06ebdfd775

I sand my deck every two years. It’s a pure joy to bring it back to ‘new’. I use a cheap Harbor Freight orbital sander after the Ryobi decided to give up years ago. Have had zero issues. A 12x16 deck takes about 90 minutes. The very first time though, after deck had ‘aged’ for 4 years, it took a few hours more. Doing it every two years provides for a nice and beautiful surface, easy to oil to bring out the colors.

Yeah, heard Snohomish and north has seen much more of the smoke than the Seattle area.

Clear on the west side today. AQI of 62 (vs 162 Saturday). Yet much warmer than yesterday.

Like I said, you're good!

You’re good and on the right track. I would just add that you’re not installing a ‘charger’ per se, but a fancy cable hanger.

The dip switches (good) are only there to communicate to the car (where the charger is located) how much current the car is allowed to draw. This so car [charger] does not draw more current than what the [house] infrastructure can support.

Level 2 ‘chargers’ are only a way to safely deliver 208/240 V AC to the car. People get overly hung on this [charger] and often spend far more than what they need. Or are a bit deceived of what the devices actually are and do.

But with a high static load (or high continuous load), it is imperative that all connections are properly done, are tight, as you will be pulling a decently high amperage for extended periods of time, and not like a clothes dryer (a comparable load) that often runs less than an hour, with load switching on and off during the time. A poor connection can easily overheat, leading to further heating. Etc.

No worries, not you. I was a bit unclear. Yes, heat pump will give you an accelerator of 3-5 X compared to direct resistive heating.

Sorry, I have none. Heat with gas. But if that’s not an option, even has fire place, heat pump is the way to go for you. I have friends using gas fireplace combined with IR ‘cove heaters’ very successfully. They are essentially large infrared panels mounted high up on the wall, direction heat towards the human.

Heat pump FWIW, my 3,000 sqf old poorly insulated house from the 1960s never see total bill (gas and electricity) go over $150/month. Electricity is normally around $35-$50 year round. Gas fluctuates with season of course, higher Dec-March. Climate up here in WA west of the Cascades is mild.