They’ll fine it during an audit so you’re better off telling your boss so you don’t have to deal with cross year repayments

Probably not unless you’re also maxing out an ira and don’t have access to an hsa

> So it’s showing as down because it’s a 3% rate but rates are higher so it’s worth less in resale value?

Correct (this is how all bonds are priced).

https://www.fidelity.com/learning-center/investment-products/fixed-income-bonds/bond-prices-rates-yields

At its most basic, bond prices go up when rates go down and bond prices go down when rates go up but prices approach 100 (ie par) the closer you are to maturity.

So say you had two bonds from the same issuer and same maturity. One has a 4% coupon and one has a 6% coupon. Prevailing rates at 5%. The first bond will sell at a discount while the second sells at a premium. The yield to maturity for both will be the same, however so it doesn’t matter which you buy.

> The “value” of the asset is going to get worse and worse because Fidelity only shows the current resell value of the CD (as time goes on, fewer payments, so value will continue to drop and drop and report close to a -100% loss?)

Yes and no. Brokered CDs are essentially bonds. As rates rise, the value of the bond will decline but as maturity approaches, the value will approach the face value of the bond

> Kind of related to the above, the CD monthly payment goes into cash, so it should be reflected in the overall brokerage account % gain or loss?

Doesn’t matter unless you sell before maturity.

> Is it worthwhile to do your CDs in an additional brokerage account to keep them separate from stocks and bonds so both are a bit more accurate on gains/losses? I feel like the slowly losing value and then suddenly getting the $1,000 back as cash (or a lot more given their retirement pool) will potentially spook them or something

They can be treated the same as a bond, as that is effectively what they are (albeit credit risk free)

Entire payment

Https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/commontopics

Unless your house is a rental property, it will increase your DTI so you’ll be able to buy less house then you otherwise would

> My question is does it matter which you invest in?

Not usually. Roth 401k is often tax inefficient since income can force you into Roth IRA.

> If you’re a fan of tax free growth — why don’t most people do the 401k match, Roth IRA, and then Roth 401k? If you have a Roth 401k, is that better than a Roth IRA?

Exclusively Roth is highly tax inefficient

> I’m 24 and In the 24% tax bracket, don’t really have a set age I want to retire yet. So it seems like I should take the 401k match and then focus on Roth 401k? Would that be a good plan

Doubtful

Https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/rothortraditional

Suit jacket & shorts gang for life

I feel like it’s how can you not save money working from home.

No, credit building is easy. You don’t need to play stupid games

You’d be asking for an advance. Some employers will do that.

> What about the points and charges in borrowing 30K?

Most helocs don't have points or any sort of closing costs (at least any that ive seen).

>Is it wiser to take out the HELOC or just pull the $$ out and re-invest/replenish that amount over the next 15 months?

Heloc, especially if you have excellent credit. May just need a better lender.

> The Transamerica guy make the "loan from myself" sound pretty decent because he said all the interest goes back to my account.

Sure but he also left out the part where if the market turns around, you miss out on all those gains

Yeah that’s a mutual fund. Share price is just for record keeping. Doesn’t meant anything for a retail investor

1. If you default you'll be subject to income taxes and a 10% penalty, which is way more than 8% interest.

If you have no mortgage, you should be able to find a heloc at prime minus, unless your credit is poor

For mutual funds, yes. For ETFs, no (unless you're buying at a brokerage that allows fractional shares, then it’s also a yes)

You can't borrow against an IRA and borrowing against 401k can be quite expensive in the long run since your money is out of the market.

I'd look into helocs

What savings? Just cash? Then you’re just paying interest for no reason.

Or is this “savings” some sort of asset?

Is this a margin loan?

If yes, do you understand how Margin calls work?

Https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/commontopics

Step 6 probably

Or do more of what you did to get to where you are now

Https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/commontopics

Https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/investing

Https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/commontopics

If you’re not responsible enough to use credit cards, freeze one in a block of ice for those fee times you really need one

Https://www.reddit.com/r/personalfinance/wiki/commontopics

401k is investing but with tax advantages

Why are you making this so complicated instead of just buying broad index funds?

The wiki is years of aggregated real world advice