waehrik

waehrik t1_j6i8wa3 wrote

Avoid Asolo. The foam they use to attach the sole degrades even without use. I have a set that was only about 10 years old but lightly used and which sat for a few years when I didn't do much hiking. When I took them out, not even 1/2 mile into a trail the sole started flapping loose. Apparently it's a very common problem. I had them resoled with a Vibram sole because the upper is so comfortable but it was tough even finding someone to work on them.

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waehrik t1_j0va9lh wrote

The electronics are simple so much of it will depend on how well it's taken care of physically and the environment it's used in. The heaters all use resistive wire, typically a nichrome alloy. These work like an ultra-low wattage incandescent light bulb - converting electricity to heat over a distance. Except instead of converting 75 watts over a fraction of an inch, the different wire choice converts ~50w over 1+ square feet.

That's all relevant because of how things can go wrong. If an electrical short is caused by moisture ingress, the heater's resistance drops and it will suddenly pull a lot more power and often melt. Extreme hot and cold cycling can stress the plastic case as can UV exposure if they're left exposed to the sun.

About the worst possible thing to do is leave one of the pads on the ground in an area with poor drainage. It will eventually fail. But if it's kept within an enclosure and off the ground any of them should lead a long life.

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waehrik t1_izvbyqd wrote

Yes. They're mechanically simpler and more resistant to damage from overloading and vibration. They work on a completely different principle too. And agitate the clothes while top loading washers rely on the clothes falling down from the top of the drum and smashing the clothes on the bottom to provide the same type of action.

One major difference though is in efficiency. Top loading washers choir much more water to operate than side loading. It's actually an interest of side loading washers to have less water and soap that doesn't suds. If so, where to produce suds? It provides a cushion and significantly decreases the effectiveness of washing because clothes can't fall down and smash other clothes as hard, reducing the cleaning effect. That's where the HE detergents come from: they have reduced suds.

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waehrik t1_iz24m93 wrote

In that case honestly just connect it to your cold water line on your sink. It's a little more wasteful since all of your cold water gets filtered including for hand washing, but it's not that much of a difference if you're not going to be there long term anyways. The filter just splices in so you can easily revert it when you move out.

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waehrik t1_iz23qr6 wrote

In true BIFL fashion I have to suggest something completely different: can you install a cold water tap next to your faucet? Drilling a hole is cheap, even if you have a cabinet shop do it. With the tap installed (~$25, DIY) you have a ton of choices in filters to run from the equivalent of a pitcher filter all the way up to a multi stage RO.

Not only do you get a lot more choices and the option for better quality, but the filters last a LOT longer and are much cheaper. $45 will get you a single stage filter good for 4000 gallons. And you can go up from there if you have specific minerals or contaminants that you need to remove. Then if you're using it for drinking/cooking water only it will last many years.

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waehrik t1_ixjrio7 wrote

I love my cast iron. If you want something a bit lighter, try a carbon steel pan. It requires similar care to cast iron but is significantly lighter. Depending on what your making, it can be a bit more convenient if it requires a lot of motion or you need something with rounded edges

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waehrik t1_ixintch wrote

Thank you for calling them out!

Unfortunately that seems fairly consistent across all coated non-stick cookware. The surface can only be bonded so well and will wear off over time (sometimes a very short time) and get into your food. Anodized aluminum is more durable but the real champions are cast iron, carbon steel, and stainless. There's nothing to wear off though they require seasoning and more care

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waehrik t1_ixedwd3 wrote

Your relative's boots look great but wouldn't match up to your list of requirements. The way the tongue/front of the leather attaches leaves a huge overlap where water can enter. They'd likely be fine in light rain but certainly not "terrible weather"

Personally I'd go with a pair of Nick's or White's boots as a primary but then buy a cheap pair of Timberlands or discount boots from r/frugalmalefashion for chores and car repair. You don't want to ruin your nice pair with toe gouges from kneeling down if the same pair will serve as your nice date/office boots.

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waehrik t1_ix57ssj wrote

Double layer is fine as long as both layers are full grain leather. I have the Hank's double bison belt (two layers of buffalo hide, it's really thick) and it's insanely durable. It took a while to stretch and settle in but I expect it to outlast me. It comes with a lifetime warranty if by some fluke it doesn't.

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waehrik t1_iw4dp27 wrote

Mulch them into your lawn. Not only does it eliminate the bag and fuel from transportation of your leaves but it's an effective fertilizer so you don't have to dump nitrogen into the soil

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